Caccia al Tesoro - Tuyat

Reach Taghia in Morocco.

From Taghia, take the path to the Passage Berbere up to the distinctive purple-coloured pass; from here, take the track descending towards the river, cross it and follow the path marked by cairns back up until you reach a gully with rocks bleached by the water; at this point, keep low and head for a tree with a pink cord around its trunk (cairn on a dead tree beforehand).

From the tree, a traverse protected by bolts of up to grade 3 begins, with a 10-metre zip line. After this, continue traversing (4 bolts) to the start of the route (bolt with a white sling). Approximately 1 hour from Taghia.

P1: Initial welcoming boulder, then easy to the belay. 35m, 6b+
P2: Technical wall with a delicate slab move, then easy, followed superb crack systems and another tricky move to reach the anchor. 50m, 7a
P3: Technical and physical on a small overhang, then a delicate slab move. 35m, 7a
P4: The crux of the route! Increasing difficulty on slab, total smears, a major challenge! 30m, 8a/+
P5: Delicate traversing start, then a mono-finger move, then another traverse exit that keeps you on edge. 40m, 7b+
P6: Tougher start than it looks, then a physical pillar and a sustained finish. 30m, 7b+
P7: A bouldery move that's hard to read, demanding all the way to the belay. 30m, 7a+
P8: Start in a crack, then flakes and pockets! 30m, 7a
P9: Demanding start on a flake, then a series of very delicate slab moves. 40m, 7c
P10: Initial boulder, then traverse right and a sustained finish. 40m, 7b
P11: Easy but on less-than-perfect rock. Belay on a ledge. A 10m rightwards traverse equipped for a possible very comfortable bivouac on the ledge.
P12: Difficult boulder (1 peg), then easy to the belay. 30m, 7a+ (one move)
P13: Beautiful rock at the start with athletic moves, a rockover, then rock with less friction but easier to the belay. 30m, 7b
P14: Hard initial move, then gradually easier but remain focused. 40m, 7b
P15: Exit on a small overhang, then ramps to the belay on a very comfortable ledge. 60m, 6b

From here, 100m of easy climbing (max grade 4) but requiring protection, leads to the summit of Tuyat.

Abseil down the route. With 60m ropes: B15, B14, B13, B11, B10, B9, B8, B6, B5, B3, B2, B1, traverse, and tyrolean.

Alternatively, on foot from the summit via the Tire‑Bouchon trail (2 hours from the summit of Tuyat).

Equipped with 10mm galvanized bolts. Take 14 quickdraws and 60m ropes.

The route was established ground-up over a period of 14 days, from 20 October to 5 November 2025, by Filippo Colombo, Andrea Giglioli, Enrico Pession and Matteo Michetti.