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Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
12/01/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol
South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have made the first ascent of Räuber Hotzenplotz (M9 Wi5). This mixed climb is located to the left of the famous Koflerbach icefall close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Federica Mingolla / Video of Aiguille Croux climb in Mont Blanc massif
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla / Video of Aiguille Croux climb in Mont Blanc massif
The video of Federica Mingolla and Gabriele Carrara making the first ascent of L'isola che non c’è, the rock climb established in summer 2018 up Aiguille Croux in the Mont Blanc massif.
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
09/01/2019 - Climbing
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
Climbing alone and ground-up, last spring German alpinist Alexander Huber made the first ascent of Mauerläufer (200m, 8b+) up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
08/01/2019 - Climbing
Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati, Marco Zanone… climbing a muerte in Spain
Roundup of recent redpoints at Margalef, Siurana and Perles in Spain by the Italian climbers Laura Rogora, Marcello Bombardi, Stefano Carnati and Marco Zanone. In addition, noteworthy attempts at Saint Loup in Switzerland by Riccardo Scarian and Alessandro Zeni.
Patagonia Aguja Guillaumet: Markus Pucher first winter solo ascent video
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Patagonia Aguja Guillaumet: Markus Pucher first winter solo ascent video
The video of the first winter solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia, carried out on 8 September 2017 by Austrian mountaineer Markus Pucher.
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
02/01/2019 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder climbs Croatia’s hardest, Dugi rat at Omiš
On 31/12/2018 Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder made the first ascent of Dugi rat at the crag Vrulja close to Omiš in Croatia. Graded 9a+, this is now the hardest sport climb in the country.
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
01/01/2019 - Climbing
Sardinia sport climbing: the new guidebook to Domusnovas
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the new climbing guidebook to Domusnovas, in the south-west of Sardinia, one of the 'historic' sport climbing areas on the Italian island.
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
31/12/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
Zabardast: Biacherahi and the incredible freeride skiing in the heart of the Karakorum
Zabardast: Biacherahi and the incredible freeride skiing in the heart of the Karakorum
The film Zabardast directed by Jérôme Tanon that documents a trip into the heart of the Karakorum to explore the potential for freeride skiing in Pakistan. The highlight was the ski descent of 5880m high Biacherahi. With Thomas Delfino, Léo Taillefer, Zak Mills, Yannick Graziani and Hélias Millerioux.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
25/12/2018 - Alpinism
Filo d'Ambiez up Cima d'Ambiez, new Brenta Dolomites winter direttissima
On 14 December 2018 Gianni Canale, Demis Lorenzi and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Filo d’Ambiez ( AI, VI-, 350m), a direct line up the NW Face of Cima d’Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
23/12/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra onsighting Just Do It at Smith Rock, the uncut video
The uncut video, ie Adam Ondra’s entire onsight ascent of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rock, USA, carried out in November 2018.
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
22/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fabian Buhl, Alexander Huber climb Choktoi Ri in Karakorum, Pakistan
The video of the ascent of the stunning ridge up Choktoi Ri 6166m in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first climbed in summer 2018 by Fabian Buhl and Alexander Huber. The 2200m route is called The Big Easy.
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
20/12/2018 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni is Off The Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has repeated Off the Wagon, the famous boulder problem graded 8B+ in Val Bavona, Switzerland.

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