Home page Planetmountain.com
Tomas Franchini on the summit of Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites on 19/12/2018 after the first ascent, solo, of Solo il Matto
Photo by Tomas Franchini
Tomas Franchini making the solo first ascent of Solo il Matto, Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites (19/12/2018)
Photo by Tomas Franchini
Tomas Franchini below Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites where on 19/12/2018 he made the first ascent, on his own, of Solo il Matto
Photo by Tomas Franchini
Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites and the line of Solo il Matto (Tomas Franchini, solo on 19/12/2018)
Photo by Tomas Franchini

Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites

by

Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).

"I simply wanted to climb alone, I like climbing solo, in fact, I love it." These are the words of Tomas Franchini, the mountain guide from Madonna di Campiglio who, whenever given the chance, grasps the opportunity to take to the mountains on his own. His first solo ascent up the virgin west face of Mount Edgar (6618m) in China last year is a case in point, but obviously he’s also carried out numerous solitary raids in his backyard mountains, too. His most recent is dated Wednesday 19 December, when he forged Solo il Matto, a new route up Spallone dei Massodì in the Brenta Dolomites.

"It's a good year, many lines have come into condition and my idea was to climb a line on my own up Cima Tosa" Tomas told planetmountain.com, adding "In the past I’ve done many climbs like this throughout the Brenta and the other day the call was simply too strong…"

Tomas made his way up to the Brentei hut on 18 December, but at the winter bivouac he was surprised to discover that none of his food rations were in his rucksack. As a result of this "joke" he didn’t feel up to dealing with the challenging line on Cima Tosa, so the next morning he opted for Spallone dei Massodi. "I wanted to try and make do with only the two tea bags that were in the bivouac, a fistful of dried fruit and the 3 energy bars that I’d planned on using, so I chose a line that seemed less tiring and was shorter as I hadn’t eaten properly. Spallone is a beautiful rock face, completely untouched, in a wild corner of the Brenta. And the climb finishes at the top of Spallone, where the Bocchette Alte via ferrata pass by in summer. Stunning."

The route is called Solo il Matto, Only the madman, and as to the question about how he climbed the 350m line Tomas replied "I had a rope with me, because I thought I’d abseil back down the route, but in the end I descended down the gully on the other side." Yes, but what about the style? "Totally free. I was mad for it."

Link: FB Tomas Franchiniwww.tomasfranchini.com

Tomas thanks his sponsors: La SportivaFerrino, Primus, Blue Ice, Beal, Level, Calze GM, Blizeyewear, CampoBzse Travel, Casimiro, Sempreverde Biogermogli

Share


NEWS / Related news:
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
06.11.2017
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Edgar (Franchini, solo), the first ascent of the NW Face and a repeat of the original route first ascended in 2003 by a Korean expedition.
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
28.09.2018
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.
Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
18.09.2018
Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.
King of the Bongo, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini make swift repeat in Val di Mello
02.06.2017
King of the Bongo, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini make swift repeat in Val di Mello
On 22/05/2017 Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini repeated King of the Bongo, the route first climbed in 2014 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera.
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29.03.2017
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru
16.11.2015
La Divina Providencia, Franchini brothers forge new mixed climb on Nevado Churup in Peru
On 2 June 2015 Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini made the first ascent of La Divina Providencia, a new 650m mixed route with difficulties up to M7 on the West Face of Nevado Churup (5495m), Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Via Fratelli e Cortelli, new ice climb  in the Brenta Dolomites by Franchini brothers
26.04.2012
Via Fratelli e Cortelli, new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites by Franchini brothers
On 13/03/2012 Silvestro and Tomas Franchini established Via Fratelli e Cortelli, a new route up Cima Pietragrande in the Brenta Dolomites.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer