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Lorenzo Puri making the first ascent of L'avenir nous reserve big bamboo, the first 8B boulder problemi in Valle di Daone
Photo by archivio Lorenzo Puri
Lorenzo Puri climbing the boulder problem General Disarray (8B) at Brione in Switzerland
Photo by archivio Lorenzo Puri
Lorenzo Puri sending the boulder problem La croce bianca, Val di Mello
Photo by archivio Lorenzo Puri
Lorenzo Puri bouldering in Val Masino
Photo by archivio Lorenzo Puri

Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder

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Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.

Thanks to an impressive escalation - read fast repeats of the Brione 8B’s Vecchio Leone and General Disarray and a flash ascent of the 8A Entwash direct - a few days ago the Italian boulder Lorenzo Puri sent his hundredth problem graded 8A or harder. The number is obviously symbolic , but represents talent, capability and determination well beyond the normal.

Lorenzo, 100 8A’s or harder... a year ago, would you have ever thought this could have been possible?
No, certainly not. And climbing so many problems in such a short timespan is certainly an incentive and also highly satisfying, since it’s made me understand that theres still plenty of room for improvement. I’m motivated to up the ante even more.

A hundred 8A’s obviously require plenty of groundwork. Although you were already on a roll, did something at some point go click?
Yes, when I became more conscious of what was going on. When I managed to see beyond the actual grade and understand that I was just standing in front of a lump of rock. It’s all about doing what I really like doing, experiencing the now and enjoying every part of the process.

Of all these boulders, what moments stand out and why?
Actually, every single boulder has its own story and this is what makes it all so beautiful. In order to achieve this I spent days outdoors with friends, sometimes alone, sometimes dealing with situations particular or unpleasant even, sometimes positive and extremely stimulating. All of these form part of the experiences and emotions that make me who I am, and which I will never forget.

Not all of these climbs are repeats, right? In particular there’s your new 8B in Valle di Daone, which happens to be the first in that valley
Yes, L'avenir nous reserve big bamboo was certainly an important moment, one of the few problems which got to me psychologically. I managed to do the individual moves pretty quickly, but for some reason I couldn’t make the link and even kept falling off the last moves. I was really happy when I finally got the send.

When you're not bouldering in the forest with your friends, what do you get up to?
A few months ago I moved to Milan, I work as a rout setter at the Urban Wall climbing gym in Pero, certainly one of the best climbing walls in Italy, with a team that is superb. I have the chance to test myself every day with a bunch of really strong climbers and can swap and share experiences and points of view. It’s also situated ideally for climbing trips to Cresciano, Chironico, Brione and Val Bavona in Ticinio, and also Val di Mello or Valle d'Aosta.

Out of interest, how did these hundred boulders come about? And are your plans now?
It wasn’t a dream, it simply came about! I’ve now planned to try and raise the bar a bit. Recenly I tried some reference blocs in Ticino and sent them quickly and even did some interesting flashes, so now I’m super motivated to test myself on something even harder. And keep pushing myself to the max. As always!

Links: FB Lorenzo PuriInstagram Lorenzo PuriSCARPA


8B+
1 Murano low Champorcher
2 Highlander Sustenpass
3 helicopters on beaches Albarracín / Techos

8B
4 Vecchio leone Brione
5 General Disarray Brione
6 L’ avenir nous reserve big bamboo Val daone

8A+
7 L’ uomo della dnb Val di Mello / Remenno
8 Steppenwolf Magic wood
9 Murano Champorcher
10 Ikarus Sustenpass
11 Incubator Zillertal / Ginzling wald
12 Pizz bill Gais / Altgais
13 Gioia stand Varazze / Potala
14 Fortunadrago Varazze
15 wrestling with an alligator Maltatal
16 Golden horse Zillertal / Sundergrund
17 Nem stand Varazze / Lilliput
18 Forever More sit start Brione
19 Sofa Surfer Magic wood / Hauptsektor
20 The bizarre Ride Magic wood
21 Unendliche Geschichte 1 Magic wood / Avers
22 Croce bianca Val di Mello
23 Pitbull Sustenpass / Traumland
24 Le Reve de faire Sustenpass / Traumland
25 Come un lointain Sustenpass
26 La Legge del Taglione Val daone / Nudole
27 Madrugada Sustenpass
28 Idea 92 Champorcher
29 Der listige Lurch Zillertal / Igent
30 Toy Boy Val di Mello / sasa remeno
31 Spiderman 2.0 Gais / neugais
32 Biceps power Can Boquet / Nou
33 El pollon Vilafames
34 Zarzaparrilla Albarracín / Parking
35 Valkiria Albarracín / Cabrerizo
36 Baila Morena Albarracín / loma de la tejeria
37 Esperanza sit Albarracín / Arrastradero
38 Bindu Albarracín / Techos
39 L' avenir nous reserve rien de bon Val daone / dos dei aser
40 el gauhara Zillertal / breithlaner
41 Der nihilist Zillertal / zemmschlucht
42 Blue Arrow Val daone / Nudole
43 Masha e orso tesino / malga sorgazza
44 Bad Words Belluno
45 Doctor Jump Chironico

8A
46 Entwash Brione / fiume
47 Marilyn monroe Brione / Bach
48 Frank's wild years Cresciano / filo a sbalzo
49 Il dominatore dell’ aria Tesino
50 Il Nalle Val di Mello
51 Vero uomo Val di Mello / Remenno
52 Unendliche Geschichte 2 Magic wood / /
53 Supersupernova Magic wood / Bach
54 Colorado Avalanche Gottardo
55 Cafelat e Campari Gottardo / Suworow
56 Orange madness Champorcher
57 King Size Sustenpass / King Size
58 King Rise Sustenpass
59 Früchte des Zorns Sustenpass / Steingletscher
60 Queens of the stonage Sustenpass
61 Traumland Sustenpass / Traumland
62 Fred's Traverse Sustenpass
63 Big traverse Boscoverde
64 Come un pesce fuor d'acqua Val daone / Atlantide
65 Il Cappone Val di Mello / Bagni di Masino
66 Grandalbero Val di Mello / Bagni di Masino
67 Bestiale Val di Mello / Val Masino
68 Aspettando Fred Nicole Val di Mello / Val Masino
69 True Romance Zillertal / Zillergrund bach
70 Clockwork Orange Zillertal / Zillergrund Wald
71 Kill bill Gais
72 Dr. Mabuse Gais / Medizinerblock
73 El camino del exceso Albarracín / Colmenas
74 Indian secret garden Albarracin / Mezquita
75 Copa sta bisa Albarracín / arrastradero
76 Atreyu Albarracín / arrastradero
77 futuros clasicos bezas
78 Arrobi Albarracín / Arrastradero
79 Orion Albarracín / Techos
80 Umbria sx Albarracín / La fuente
81 El orejas de las regletas Albarracín / Arrastadero
82 Cosmos Albarracín / Techos
83 Alphacentauri stand Varazze
84 orgasmatron Maltatal
85 thor...the queen Val daone / nudole
86 X-ray Silvretta
87 right hand of darkness Magic Wood
88 Octopussy Magic Wood
89 Fotti la censura Val daone / nudole
90 you drive me crazy Val daone / nudole
91 Pressure drop Zillertal / Zillergrund wald
92 no horse no rider Zillertal / Zillergrund
93 silbeross Zillertal / sundergrund
94 Analdin und die wunderschlampe Zillertal / Zillergrund wald
95 Wenn kruadek butter war Zillertal / kaserler alm
96 Schiena dell' orso tesino / malga sorgazza
97 Bitter emotion Val daone
98 walker on earth Chironico
99 le pilier Chironico
100 Mr. Segal Val daone

Link: www.8a.nu/user/lorenzo-puri

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