Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
Copia link
1 / 4
Silvia Mari
Fortunadrago is the name of the dragon who miraculously saves from the Nothing the protagonist of the Neverending Story, Michael Ende’s all-time classic masterpiece. Fortunadrago is also the name of one of the historic boulder problems at Varazze, the first 8B in the area freed years ago by local hotshot Christian Core. A fortnight ago it was climbed not once, but twice in rapid succession.
The first to succeed was 33-year-old Simone Raina who rested the problem to its former glory after it had fallen into oblivion for a number of years. A few minutes later Giorgia Tesio then sent the problem and, in doing so, she happened to send her first 8B. The two helped each other, the heelhook suggested by Giorgia proved key for Simone, while his ascent gave her the right frame of mind to miraculously save herself from the force of gravity. Nice one.
Fortunadrago by Giorgia Tesio
At the start of 2018 I made a promise to myself, I set a big goal, to send my first 8B boulder problem. During the year and the competition season however this thought was put on hold, and the only time I can actually climb outdoors is in November and December. This year though the weather certainly didn’t help.
Last Sunday a ray of sunshine motivated me and a friend of mine, Andrea Paleni, to travel to Liguria, to Varazze; I had no particular projects and I spent a great morning enjoying being back on rock again. In the late afternoon Simone arrived; he’d been trying Fortunadrago, a line I’d often noticed while flipping through the guidebook, but which I’d always reckoned was too hard. Simone was crucial for my success, not only with his support, but also because he believed in me and pushed me into trying it. After a couple of goes I found some beta which worked well for me, but kept falling right at the end. We climbed as much as possible, but eventually the darkness and exhaustion got the upper hand.
For the following week I thought about the moves every single day, but didn’t think I’d manage to go back because of my studies., This time Andrea and Federico proved crucial, as they invited me down to Varazze and I quickly said yes: perfect conditions, ideal company and huge motivation to climbing. I couldn’t ask for more.
After climbing with them for a bit at Alphacentauri, I moved on to my project: I couldn’t wait to try it, I was excited and also nervous, because I knew I could do it and really wanted the send. In the meantime Simone had arrived; I’d sent him a message in the morning, and when, after several poor attempts I started to lose hope, Simone managed to send the problem and this triggered something in me: all of a sudden I felt happy and light, without paranoia or worries. So I tried it one more time, laughing as my friends cracked some jokes. They were there for me and at the same time I felt more determined than ever. The moves flowed one into the next and all of a sudden I was on the top, on the top of Varazze’s first 8B, as well as my first 8B, and also the first female ascent, shortly after the ascent of good friend of mine.
Now I’m happy and satisfied, I’ve fulfilled the promise I made to myself. But like so much in life, without friends and without this love for climbing I would never have succeeded, so thanks Simone, Silvia, Andrea and Federico for having been there and for sharing my joy.
Giorgia thanks E9, Climbing Technology, S.C.A.R.P.A.
