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Giorgia Tesio competing at the European Youth Bouldering Championships 2014 at Arco
Photo by Nicola Tremolada, Planetmountain.com
22-year-old Andrea Gallo making the first ascent of Hyaena at the crag Monte Sordo, Finale Ligure, in 1986
Photo by archivio Andrea Gallo / Mammut

Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale


At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Giorgia Tesio made the first female ascent of Hyaena. First climbed in 1986 by Andrea Gallo, this sport climb has remained a reference point for top end sport climbing.

One of the undisputed cornerstones of Italian sport climbing, Andrea Gallo's historic Hyaena at Finale in NW Italy was repeated the other day by young Giorgia Tesio. In repeating the route the climber from Mondovì achieved not only a rare repeat of this huge testpiece situated at the Alveare di Monte Sordo crag, but also the coveted first female ascent of a climb that has marked the history of sport climbing.

Hyaena was freed in December 1986 by a 22-year-old Andrea Gallo who at the time, since he lacked other reference climbs for comparison, originally graded the line 8a+/8b. Only after the first repeat carried out in 1987 by Austria’s Gerhard Hörhager was the climb upgraded to today’s 8b/8b+. In the years that followed the famous cross-through move on the grey and honey-coloured limestone become a symbol for the elite and the climb, just like Mare Allucinante at Lumignano, a dream caressed by only a select few despite the fact that 8b+ no longer represents the apex of this sport. Having resisted the cruelest test of all - time - the route rapidly transformed into an icon of perfection.

The elusive holds have now been crimped perfectly by Giorgia Tesio, famous above all for her bouldering skills and competition results but equally 'devastating' when tied in to a rope. Tesio needed a mere 2 days and 6 attempts for the successful redpoint, 7 if you include an attempt carried out three years ago. This is a tiny number of attempts, mind-blowing if you consider that Tesio is only 17 years old. And that for this historic, beautiful and great first female ascent Hyaena had to wait over 30 years.

Link: Instagram Giorgia Tesio, E9Climbing TechnologySCARPA

On the way down from the top of one of my greatest achievements: Hyena! This wonderful piece of history is only one hour far away from my home, I’ve started trying it after my holidays in Spain: I was very motivated and I wanted to find a project before the beginning of comps. But it took less time than I expected: only two days and six tries, seven counting the one which I did three years ago. I’m so satisfied! Now I’m even more motivated to train and compete again! Thanks to my dad for the support, but also a big hug to @camilla.moroni (who is very close to do it as well), her father and @pietrobiagini . @climbingtechnology @e9clothing @scarpaspa #ctclimbing #climbingtribe #ctteam #scarpaspa #scarpateam #e9team #e9clothing

A post shared by Giorgia Tesio (@giorgia.tesio) on


NEWS / Related news:
Giorgia Tesio sends Noi 8b+ at Andonno
Giorgia Tesio sends Noi 8b+ at Andonno
At Andonno in Italy Giorgia Tesio has repeated Noi, the historic sports climb freed by Andrea Gallo graded 8b+.
Giorgia Tesio boulders 8A+ at Varazze
Giorgia Tesio boulders 8A+ at Varazze
On 28 December at Varazze in Italy Giorgia Tesio repeated the boulder problem Excalibur sit 8A+.




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