1785 News found

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Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
03/07/2019 - Alpinism
Grand Flambeau, Ezio Marlier discovers two mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Mountaineering on Mont Blanc and a stone's throw from the Torino refuge: Aosta mountain guide Ezio Marlier introduces two new mixed climb on Grand Flambeau, Koala Pirla and La Vie in Rosa.
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
23/06/2019 - Alpinism
Karl Egloff sets new Denali Speed record in Alaska
Ecuadorian - Swiss mountain guide Karl Egloff has set a new speed record on Denali in Alaska, climbing the West Buttress route in 7:40 and returning to his starting point in 11:44. In doing so he beat the previous fastest known time set in 2014 by Kilian Jornet Burgarda.
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
20/06/2019 - Alpinism
King Cobra on Mount Barrill, big wall variation to Cobra Pillar in Alaska
Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Alastair McDowell and John Price have made the first ascent of King Cobra (550m, 5.11), a 350m variation to the famous Cobra Pillar on the East Face of Mount Barrill (2332m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
19/06/2019 - Interviews
Gran Paradiso new summit ascent and descent route. Interview with Alex Chabod
Interview with Alex Chabod, vice president of the Gran Paradiso Mountain Guides, after the decision to recommend an ascent route and a different descent route on Gran Paradiso in order to avoid queues forming on the final meters to the summit.
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
13/06/2019 - Alpinism
Speta che Vegno, new multi-pitch rock climb in Valle del Sarca
On Croz dele Mirandole (Roccione di Ranzo) at Ranzo in the Sarca valley, Italy, Nicola Cont, Martin Giovanazzi and Elio Mazzalai have made the first ascent of Speta che Vegno, a new multi-pitch climb they established ground-up.
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
12/06/2019 - Interviews
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
Interview with blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton who the famous trad climbing route The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, the achievement has been recognised by the Scottish parliament.
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Presanella NE Ridge skied by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
On 2 June 2019 Roberto and Luca Dallavalle skied the NE Ridge of Presanella, marking an incredible end to a special season on a classic alpine outing in the Adamello - Presanella group.
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
05/06/2019 - Climbing
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, has repeated world famous trad climb The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. First ascended by in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie, this 6-pitch outing is a true symbol of...
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
01/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
27/05/2019 - Interviews
David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
24/05/2019 - Climbing
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.

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