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François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climbing the Peutérey Integral in 12 hours and 12 minutes
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli
The gear used by François Cazzanelli to climb the Peutérey Integral in 12 hours and 12 minutes with Andreas Steindl
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl racing up the Peutérey Integral in 12 hours and 12 minutes
Photo by archivio François Cazzanelli
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl on the summit of Mont Blanc after having climbed the Peutérey Integral in 12 hours and 12 minutes
Photo by François Cazzanelli

François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc

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The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required just 15 hours and 55 minutes.

On Friday 15 July one of the longest and most famous ridges in the entire Mont Blanc massif, the Peutérey Integral, or more simply the Intégrale, was climbed at an astounding speed by the Italian mountain guide François Cazzanelli and his Swiss counterpart Andreas Steindl.

Having set off from the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny at 3:30 am, the duo required a mere 12 hours and 12 minutes to climb the crests and reach the summit of Mont Blanc. Racing back down the normal Italian route past Rifugio Gonella, they returned to the starting point after a total of 15 hours and 55 minutes on the mountain.

Just like Ueli Steck, who in 2013 had taken 16 hours and 9 minutes reach the summit via the Peuterey ridge departing at the Campsite La Sorgente but returning to the campsite at Les Houches in Chamonix, Cazzanelli and Steindl stashed their rucksacks at the base of Aiguille Noire the day before. Cazzanelli and Steindl are not new to these undertakings, in fact last year they climbed all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.

Below is Cazzanelli’s account as published on his Instagram account

Peuterey Integral... A small dream I’ve been thinking about for a long time has come true! For some years now I’ve been wanting to climb this huge ridge starting from and returning to the valley in a single push. And I felt that this year was the right one!

Last winter I told Andy about my project and he immediately accepted enthusiastically, so before my departure for Alaska we planned everything in detail. On Thursday 18 July we met up in Val Veny. We prepared our gear and in the afternoon we took our packs to the base of the south ridge of Aiguille Noire and descended back down into the valley! The next morning (Friday 19 July) at 3:30 we set off from the Campsite La Sorgente!! Everything ran perfectly and after 5 hours we reached the summit of the Noire, did the abseils and started up towards Aiguille Blanche. After 9 hours and 30 minutes without any problems we reached the Peuterey col and were ready to start up Pillier d’angle and the Peuterey Rdige. 11 hours and 50 minutes after setting off we reached the top of Mont Blanc di Courmayeur and after 12 hours and 12 minutes we summited Mont Blanc! We hugged each other, Stefano Stradelli and Jerome Perruquet summited as well, after having climbed the ridge in two days, it was a wonderful moment! We stayed on the summit for 10 minutes and then set off again. It wasn’t over, we still had to descend! For the descent we chose the normal Italian route via the Gonnella hut. We began to feel the fatigue, our rucksacks with all the gear seemed heavier and heavier! We grit our teeth and after 15 hours and 55 minutes we returned to the La Sorgente campsite where we’d set off at 3:30 in the morning (it took us 3 hours and 33 minutes to descend). To give you the numbers: in 15 hours and 55 minutes we ascended and descended 4276 vertical meters across 45.37 km.

I want to thank Matteo Pellin who hosted us at his campsite during the training days and during this project! Also, a super thanks goes to Marco Camandona and Luca Rolli who took the beautiful photos you can see! I’d also like to thank Andy Steindl who helped this little dream of mine come true!

Links: GrivelSCARPASalewaFB François Cazzanelli

View this post on Instagram

Integrale di Peuterey...Un piccolo sogno che mi frullava in mente da tempo! È da diversi anni che volevo scalare questa immensa cresta tutta d’un fiato partendo dal fondovalle e facendoci ritorno. Sentivo che quest’anno era l’anno buono! Lo scorso inverno propongo il mio progetto a Andy che entusiasta accetta subito e prima della mia partenza per l’Alaska pianifichiamo tutto nei minimi dettagli. E così giovedì 18 luglio ci troviamo in Val Veny. Prepariamo il materiale e il pomeriggio portiamo i nostri zaini alla base della cresta sud della Noire e ritorniamo a valle! Il mattino dopo (venerdì 19 luglio) alle 3:30 partiamo dal Campeggio Monte Bianco la sorgente Peuterey!! Tutto gira perfettamente e dopo 5 ore siamo in vetta alla Noire facciamo le doppie e ripartiamo verso la Blanche. Senza intoppi dopo 9 ore e 30 minuti siamo al colle di Peuterey pronti ad attaccare il Pillier d’angle e la cresta di Peuterey. Dopo 11 ore e 50 minuti dalla partenza siamo sul Monte Bianco di Courmayeur e dopo 12 ore e 12 minuti sulla vetta del Monte Bianco di Chamonix! Ci abbracciamo, arrivano anche @tetostrad e @her omeperruquet che hanno salito la cresta in due giorni un momento stupendo! Restiamo in vetta 10 minuti poi ripartiamo! Non è finita ci tocca ancora ritornare a valle! Per la discesa abbiamo scelto la via normale Italiana dal rifugio Gonnella. La stanchezza si fa sentire lo zaino con dentro tutto il materiale sembra sempre più pesante! Stringiamo i denti e dopo 15 ore e 55 minuti facciamo ritorno al camping Peuterey la sorgente da dove siamo partiti alle 3:30 della mattina (per scendere abbiamo impiegato 3 ore e 33 minuti). Per darvi i numeri in 15 ore e 55 minuti abbiamo salito e sceso 4276 m di dislivello con uno sviluppo di 45,37 km. Ci tengo a ringraziare @Matteopellin che ci ha ospitato nel suo campeggio durante i giorni di allenamento e durante il progetto! Inoltre un super ringraziamento va a @camandonamarco e @lucarolli78 che hanno scattato le bellissime foto che potete vedere! Ringrazio @andy_steindl che mi aiutato a realizzare questo mio piccolo sogno!! ——————————————— @salewa @grivel @cerviniavalt @garminoutdoor @dynafit @wildcountry_official @cebe_eyewear

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NEWS / Related news:
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
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