1163 News found

On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.

Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).

German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...

Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.

Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic has begun his single push ground up attempt to free climb the Dawn Wall, freed after 19 days by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.

Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...

Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. The Czech climber has climbed to the top of El Capitan and unlocked the sequence to the crux pitch on this extremely difficult big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while...

Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.

Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).

Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.

Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show...

Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.

Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val d’Adige).

Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 05/10/2016 at Alternativna stena in Slovakia made the first ascent of 'Robin Úd', a 9b sports climb, before on sighting the 8c+ 'C'est la vie'.