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Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China
13/02/2017 - Alpinism
Merry Christmas, amazing icefall climbed in Linzhou Taihang canyon, China
Ice climbing in China: a stunning icefall resembling a Christmas tree was first ascended on 31/01/2017 by He Chuan and Liu Yang in XianXia canyon, a branch of Linzhou Taihang canyon.
Earthquake in Central Italy, climbing and solidarity: Rebuild Boulder raises 11,000 euro
03/02/2017 - Climbing
Earthquake in Central Italy, climbing and solidarity: Rebuild Boulder raises 11,000 euro
During the first 12 stages of Rebuild Boulder, the series of informal bouldering competitions currently taking place at climbing walls throughout Italy, over 11,000 euro have been raised to help those affected by the earthquakes that rocked central Italy in August and October 2016.
Michi Wohlleben frees Stirb langsam, huge mixed climb in Austria
27/01/2017 - Alpinism
Michi Wohlleben frees Stirb langsam, huge mixed climb in Austria
Alpinism: on 18/01/2017 German alpinist Michi Wohlleben, climbing with Lukas Binder, made the first ascent of 'Stirb langsam' (M11+/WI6+, 200m) a difficult new ice and mixed climb in the Wetterstein massif, Tyrol, Austria.
Charity appeal for the victims of the Campo Felice helicopter crash
26/01/2017 - Alpinism
Charity appeal for the victims of the Campo Felice helicopter crash
We willingly publish the appeal of the Italian Corps for Mountain and Speleological Rescue to help the families of the victims of helicopter crash at Campo Felice, in Abruzzo, Italy. On 24/01/2017 the aircraft crashed during a rescue mission, the five members of its crew and the injured person were...
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
25/01/2017 - Climbing
Chulilla in Spain, thoughts about this world-class climbing destination. By Maurizio Oviglia
Politically incorrect thoughts after a climbing trip to Chulilla, Spain, one of the best rock climbing destinations in the world and currently extremely popular among the climbing community. By Maurizio Oviglia.
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
21/01/2017 - Alpinism
Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul
On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great...
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo
04/01/2017 - Alpinism
Ines Papert and Luka Lindič pull off first repeat of Pizzo Badile Nordest Supercombo
Winter mountaineering: Ines Papert reports about the first repeat of the ice and mixed climb ‘Nordest Supercombo' (800m, M7, R) up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile, carried out on 30/12/2016 together with Luka Lindič
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
06/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
21/11/2016 - Interviews
Jorg Verhoeven and the El Capitan Dihedral Wall interview
Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
15/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic has begun his single push ground up attempt to free climb the Dawn Wall, freed after 19 days by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. The Czech climber has climbed to the top of El Capitan and unlocked the sequence to the crux pitch on this extremely difficult big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

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