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Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
03/01/2017 - Alpinism
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the North Face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
30/12/2016 - Alpinism
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
On 23/12/2016 the mountain guides Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller made the first ascent of 'Pinzga Stier' (WI5, 1200m), a new ice climb up Hochbirghöhe in Austria.
Pointe de la Fouly, new ski descent in Mont Blanc massif
Pointe de la Fouly, new ski descent in Mont Blanc massif
On 15 December 2016 Vivian Bruchez, Tristan Knoertzer and Ben Tibbetts skied what is believed to be a new line down the West Face of Pointe de la Fouly (3611m) in the Mt. Blanc massif.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Magic Fox, new rock climb up Torre dei Sabbioni in the Dolomites
20/09/2016 - Alpinism
Magic Fox, new rock climb up Torre dei Sabbioni in the Dolomites
On Torre dei Sabbioni (Marmarole, Dolomites) Alessandro Fiori, Pier Francesco Smaltini and Simone Corte Pause have made the first ascent of Magic Fox, a new multi-pitch rock climb in memory of Alberto Bonafede and Aldo Giustina who on 31/08/2011 tragically lost their lives during a mountain rescue operation on Mt....
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
05/07/2016 - Climbing
Helvetestinden Wall, new rock climbs on Norway's Lofoten Islands
In summer 2015 Guillermo Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve and Salvador Llorens climbed two new routes on the huge Helvetestinden Wall and one new route on the Selgstinden Pillar on the Lofoten Islands, Norway.
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
30/06/2016 - Climbing
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
On 13/06/2016 Jon Egil Auestad and Øyvind Salvesen made the first ascent of #Norwegianstyle, a new trad climb up Preikestolen (Pulpit rock) in Norway.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Les Courtes Austrian route skied by Boissenot, Roguet, Brunel and Gentet
Les Courtes Austrian route skied by Boissenot, Roguet, Brunel and Gentet
On 10/04/2016 Yannick Boissenot, Stéphane Roguet, Nicolas Brunel and Titi Gentet descended on skis the Austrian route down the North Face of Les Courtes (3856m), Mont Blanc massif.
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
08/04/2016 - Climbing
Paul Pritchard summits 'his' Totem Pole in Tasmania
On April 4, 2016 British climber Paul Pritchard summited the Totem Pole, the amazing obelisk in Tasmania where he suffered a nigh fatal fall in 1998. As a result of that incident Pritchard was left partially paralysed and now, 18 years later, his ascent celebrates a conquest and circle that...

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