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Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
05/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mount Huntington: Clint Helander and Jess Roskelley climb complete South Ridge in Alaska
Interview with American alpinists Jess Roskelley who made the first ascent of the South Ridge on Mount Huntington (3731m) in Alaska with Clint Helander. Called the Gauntlet Ridge (Alaska Grade 6, M6, A0, 95° snow, 2,500m), the committing new route was climbed alpine style over an 8-day period in mid-April.
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
20/03/2017 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment by Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben
Winter mountaineering: on 17/03/2017 the alpinists Simon Gietl and Michi Wohlleben completed the traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo - Drei Zinnen - in the Dolomites, climbing Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima in 9 hours 15 minutes. This is certainly the first...
Torres del Paine, interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent of El Regalo de Mwono in Patagonia
10/03/2017 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine, interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent of El Regalo de Mwono in Patagonia
Interview with Nicolas Favresse after the first free ascent, carried out with fellow-Belgians Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll and Siebe Vanhee, of the big wall rock climb El Regalo de Mwono (1200m, 8a) located on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
06/02/2017 - Alpinism
Valtournenche: two new ice climbs by the Cervino Mountain Guides
On 20 and 21 January 2017 François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti and Jules Pession (Cervino mountain guides) made the first ascents of 'Livello Inferiore' and 'Nuovi Orizzonti', two new mixed routes in Valtournenche. Francesco Ratti reports.
Happy Ending, new icefall in Val Trementina, Paganella
24/01/2017 - Alpinism
Happy Ending, new icefall in Val Trementina, Paganella
Alessio Miori reports about the first ascent of Happy Ending, a new ice climb in Val Trementina (Paganella, Italy), first ascended on on 22-23/12/2016 together with the Luca Caldini, Giordano Faletti, Mattia Piffer and Stefano Vulcan.
 All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
12/01/2017 - Alpinism
All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
10/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Mercier climbs new variation to Beyond Good and Evil on Aiguille des Pélerins, Mont Blanc
Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the North face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
03/01/2017 - Alpinism
Julian Alps, new winter climb on Cima Verde del Montasio
Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the North Face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
30/12/2016 - Alpinism
Felbertal, another big new icefall up Hochbirghöhe in the High Tauern
On 23/12/2016 the mountain guides Vittorio Messini and Isidor Poppeller made the first ascent of 'Pinzga Stier' (WI5, 1200m), a new ice climb up Hochbirghöhe in Austria.
Pointe de la Fouly, new ski descent in Mont Blanc massif
Pointe de la Fouly, new ski descent in Mont Blanc massif
On 15 December 2016 Vivian Bruchez, Tristan Knoertzer and Ben Tibbetts skied what is believed to be a new line down the West Face of Pointe de la Fouly (3611m) in the Mt. Blanc massif.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...

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