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Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin
02/06/2019 - Climbing
Orco Valley: Silvan Schüpbach climbs new trad variation up Torre di Aimonin
On Torre di Aimonin in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach has made the first ascent of 'Know your cat', a new trad variant to the rock climbs Know yourself and Cani & Gatti
Melloblocco... an end and new beginning
16/04/2019 - Climbing
Melloblocco... an end and new beginning
Melloblocco, the largest climbing meeting in the world that has taken place for 14 years in Val Masino - Val di Mello before going on tour to Cresciano in Switzerland, will not take place this May as per tradition.
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
13/04/2019 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold, Martin Echser climb thin ice in Switzerland’s Schöllenen Gorge
Swiss alpinists Dani Arnold and Martin Echser have made the first ascent of the 9-pitch mixed climb Uristier Schöllenen (WI6+/M8) in the Schöllenen Gorge, Switzerland.
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier
04/04/2019 - Alpinism
La Vierge du Flambeau in Mont Blanc massif / Miss Go by Ezio Marlier
Ezio Marlier introduces the modern mixed climb Miss No which he first ascended with Elisabetta Ceaglio up the NE Face of La Vierge du Flambeau (3244m), Mont Blanc massif in April 2017.
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
02/04/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de l'Amône, new East Face climb by Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach
On Aiguille de l'Amône (3586m), Swiss mountaineers Simon Chatelan and Silvan Schüpbach have made the first ascent of L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, described as being a 'challenging mixed climb’ up the mountain’s relatively unknown East Face.
Val di Mello online petition against path for the disabled
13/03/2019 - Environment
Val di Mello online petition against path for the disabled
The Committee for the defence of Val Di Mello, Italy, has launched an online petition against the planned expansion of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled. While thousands have already signed in protest, Luca Maspes, President of the Val di Mello Mountain Guides, urges for...
Oscars: Free Solo featuring Alex Honnold climbing El Capitan wins Best Documentary
25/02/2019 - Climbing
Oscars: Free Solo featuring Alex Honnold climbing El Capitan wins Best Documentary
The film Free Solo that chronicles the extraordinary solo, ropeless ascent of Alex Honnold up El Capitan in Yosemite has won an Oscar for Best Documentary. Directed by Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi, this is the first time a climbing film has won the most prestigious award in filmmaking.
Giuliano Cameroni potent on Poison the Well, 8C+ boulder at Brione in Switzerland
20/02/2019 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni potent on Poison the Well, 8C+ boulder at Brione in Switzerland
Swiss rock climber Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of Poison the Well, an 8C+ boulder problem at Brione in Switzerland.
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.

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