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Oscars: Free Solo featuring Alex Honnold climbing El Capitan wins Best Documentary
25/02/2019 - Climbing
Oscars: Free Solo featuring Alex Honnold climbing El Capitan wins Best Documentary
The film Free Solo that chronicles the extraordinary solo, ropeless ascent of Alex Honnold up El Capitan in Yosemite has won an Oscar for Best Documentary. Directed by Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi, this is the first time a climbing film has won the most prestigious award in filmmaking.
Giuliano Cameroni potent on Poison the Well, 8C+ boulder at Brione in Switzerland
20/02/2019 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni potent on Poison the Well, 8C+ boulder at Brione in Switzerland
Swiss rock climber Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of Poison the Well, an 8C+ boulder problem at Brione in Switzerland.
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
10/12/2018 - Alpinism
Asta Nunaat in Greenland, Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari climb Gioielli Viventi
On Asta Nunaat in eastern Greenland Andrea Ghitti and Fabio Olivari have made the first ascent of 'Gioielli Viventi', a new rock climb (320m, VI+/A1) established on 9 August 2018. This is likely to be only the second ascent of this mountain, after the first carried out in 2006 by...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
22/11/2018 - Alpinism
Langdung: new Spanish route in Nepalese Himalayas
At the end of October 2018 Spanish mountaineers Pablo Ruix (Blín), Jesús Ibarz and Edu Recio established a new route up Langdung (6357 m) above the Rolwaling valley in Nepal. Ibarz reports about their Bihâna (6c+, 1500 m, ED+).
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
09/11/2018 - Climbing
Carlo Traversi repeats Meltdown, the Beth Rodden masterpiece in Yosemite
American climber Carlo Traversi has made the first repeat of Meltdown (5.14c) in Yosemite, first ascended in 2008 by Beth Rodden.
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range
In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.
Kilian Fischhuber and Co climb Siberia’s Sundrun Pillars
24/10/2018 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber and Co climb Siberia’s Sundrun Pillars
Kilian Fischhuber, Robert Leistner and Galya Terenteva have made a series of first ascents up the Sundrun Pillars, Ulakhan-Sis in Siberia.
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
18/10/2018 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
Italian climber Federica Mingolla reports about her first free ascent in Valle Orco, Italy, of an old project bolted in 2001 by Giovannino Massari and now graded 8a+. The route joins another nearby line freed by Mingolla a year ago: Occhi Nuovi 8a+.
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/10/2018 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Argentiere: new climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Ján Smoleň have established two new rock climbs on Aiguille d’Argentière in the Mont Blanc massif: Crystal route up Contreforts Charlet-Straton and In memory of Červienka up Plateau du Jardin.
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
05/10/2018 - Interviews
El Capitan Freerider: Alexander Huber Yosemite masterpiece celebrates 20th anniversary
Interview with German climber Alexander Huber 20 years after the first free ascent of Freerider, the famous big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
26/09/2018 - Alpinism
Significant rockfall on Trident du Tacul in Mont Blanc massif
Last night significant rockfall took place on the Trident du Tacul, close to the Grand Capucin (Mont Blanc massif).
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
26/09/2018 - Trekking
Trail running in Switzerland: 3 magnificent runs in the Swiss Alps
Mountain running in Switzerland: Bettmeralp alongside the Aletsch Glacier, Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald and Monte Zucchero. Three magnificent trail running routes in the Swiss Alps taken from the guidebook 'Run the Alps Switzerland: 30 Must-Do Trails' produced by PatitucciPhoto and ALPSinsight.
Devil's Paw in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face
18/09/2018 - Alpinism
Devil's Paw in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden climb West Face
Mountain climbing in Alaska: Brette Harrington and Gabe Hayden have made the first ascent of Shaa Téix’i (1300m, 5.11a) up the West Face of the Devils Paw, Juneau Ice Cap.

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