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Saro Costa sets FKT from Val Bregaglia to Val Masino via Piz Badile North Ridge
25/08/2025 - Alpinism
Saro Costa sets FKT from Val Bregaglia to Val Masino via Piz Badile North Ridge
On Wednesday 13 August 2025 Italian mountain guide Saro Costa set the FKT - fastest known time - for the Piz Badile SkyClimb, starting in Val Bregaglia and finishing in Val Masino, via the mountain's famous North Ridge. Over 20km and almost 5000 meters of total elevation gain up 'a...
The Mystery of Phandambiri established by Italian expedition in Mozambique
21/08/2025 - Climbing
The Mystery of Phandambiri established by Italian expedition in Mozambique
On Saturday 9 August the Italians Manrico Dell'Agnola, Antonella Giacomini, Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto completed 'Il mistero del Phandambiri' (The Mystery of Phandambiri) on the SE Pillar of Phandambiri, also referred to as Mount Panda. The climb reaches the mountain's main summit and comes in the wake of...
First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola
14/08/2025 - Climbing
First ascents of Kaikiawila, Ngoku and other new climbs in Angola
A team of seven Spanish comprising Miguel A. Díaz, Álvaro García, Indi Gutierrez, David Matos, Juanjo Medina, Manu Ponce and Gonzalo Torre has completed several first ascents on the imposing granite mountains of southern Cumbira II in Angola's Cuanza Sur province. Highlights include the first ascents of Mt. Kaikiawila and...
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
12/08/2025 - Climbing
First climb established on Mt. Phandambiri in Mozambique
In Mozambique, Mirco Grasso and Samuele Mazzolini have established 'O caminho dos cogumelos' on the east face of Mount Panda, also known as Phandambiri. Nearly 900 meters high and graded 7a, this is the first route on this granite monolith. The two climbers are part of a larger expedition that...
Jonas Schild repeats Joy Division on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy
09/08/2025 - Climbing
Jonas Schild repeats Joy Division on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy
Swiss climber Jonas Schild, climbing with Thomas Schmid, has made a rare free ascent of 'Joy Division', the 800m 8b on Monte Qualido in Val di Mello, Italy. Established in 2004 by Simone Pedeferri, even today it is considered one of the hardest granite multi-pitches in Europe. Schild provides the...
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
01/08/2025 - Alpinism
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
Italian alpinists Davide Bacci, Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eynard and Giacomo Meliffi have made the first ascent of 'L'oro dello Yukon' on Middle Huey Spire on the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada.
New free climbs on Merriam Peak and Fish Tale Spire in Sierra Nevada, USA
28/07/2025 - Climbing
New free climbs on Merriam Peak and Fish Tale Spire in Sierra Nevada, USA
Japhy Dhungana and Zach Lovell have made the first free ascent of 'Dr. Bear Love' on Merriam Peak (3,993m) in the Sierra Nevada, USA. The 400m route was established in 2012 by Luke Stefurak and Casey Zak and now goes free at 7c+. During the same trip Dhungana and Lovell...
 'Histoire Sans Fin' repeated on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Camilla Moroni, Pietro Vidi
16/07/2025 - Alpinism
'Histoire Sans Fin' repeated on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Camilla Moroni, Pietro Vidi
Camilla Moroni and Pietro Vidi have repeated 'Histoire sans Fin' (8b+/5.14a 200m) on Petit Clocher du Portalet in Switzerland. Moroni's repeat is the first female ascent of this 200m 8b+.
'Camalot' climbed on  Rognon Vaudano (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
08/07/2025 - Alpinism
'Camalot' climbed on Rognon Vaudano (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
Courmayeur mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra have made the first ascent of 'Camalot' on Rognon Vaudano, the pedestal located below Dent du Géant in the Mont Blanc massif.
'Sikunga Express' first ascent on Baffin Island by Erik Boomer, Ky Hart
20/06/2025 - Alpinism
'Sikunga Express' first ascent on Baffin Island by Erik Boomer, Ky Hart
From 1 - 23 May 2025 American alpinists Erik Boomer and Ky Hart have made the first ascent of 'Sikunga Express' (WI3 M7 5.10 A3+, 975m, 19 pitches) on Baffin Island, Canada.
New climb on Pirita Central in Turbio Valley (Patagonia) by Flavie Cardinal, Jasper Pankratz
16/06/2025 - Climbing
New climb on Pirita Central in Turbio Valley (Patagonia) by Flavie Cardinal, Jasper Pankratz
In January 2025 Canadian alpinists Flavie Cardinal and Jasper Pankratz made the first ascent of 'Todo lo que se Comparte' on Pirita Central in the remote Piritas valley, a side valley of the Turbio Valley in Northern Patagonia. Cardinal reports.
'A State Of Trance' established on Cima Busazza by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
13/05/2025 - Alpinism
'A State Of Trance' established on Cima Busazza by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 05/02/2025 manuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'A State Of Trance' on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group of the Italian Alps.
The great beauty of Melloblocco
11/05/2025 - Events
The great beauty of Melloblocco
The 18th edition of Melloblocco — the world’s largest bouldering — came to a close yesterday in Val Masino – Val di Mello, Italy. Four days of climbing and festivities in the valley drew over 2,300 registered participants and 8,000 attendees.
All roads lead to Melloblocco
09/05/2025 - Events
All roads lead to Melloblocco
Rough granite, smooth moss, rain, and sun. And climbing and friends. The report of the 3rd day of Melloblocco, directly from Val Masino and Val di Mello.
Arthur Poindefert climbs 'Digital Crack' & plays cello on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
09/05/2025 - Alpinism
Arthur Poindefert climbs 'Digital Crack' & plays cello on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
French alpinist Arthur Poindefert has combined his love for music with climbing by playing his cello after repeating the famous 'Digital Crack' on the Grand Gendarme above Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi in the Mont Blanc massif.
The Historical boulder circuits in Val di Mello & Val Masino
08/05/2025 - Climbing
The Historical boulder circuits in Val di Mello & Val Masino
Melloblocco 2025 reintroduces The Historical Bouldering Circuits in Val Masino and Val di Mello: 30 problems to discover the beauty of the Italian valley, now also available on the NIVA app. The circuits I Sassisti (5-6A), Il Melàt (6B-6C), and Il Gigiàt (7A-7B) are detailed by Michele Comi, a...