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Big new mixed climb on Mount Morrison, the Eiger of the Sierra, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko
25/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mount Morrison, the Eiger of the Sierra, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko
On 14 and 15 of April 2023 Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko made the first ascent of Troll Toll (600m, M5) on the ENE Face of Mount Morrison in California, USA. Located in the Sherwin Range of the Sierra...
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
05/04/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world, viewed through the eyes of the historic promoters Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti. Over 2000 climbers have already registered for the 16th edition which will be held in...
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
27/03/2023 - Alpinism
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
On 01/02/2023 Argentine climbers Pedro Odell and Tomas Odell made the first ascent of Yacaré on the east face of Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia. The 550m route was graded 6c+/A0 and climbed free a week later by Sean Villanueva...
Melloblocco returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy
13/03/2023 - Climbing
Melloblocco returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy
From 4 to 7 May 2023 Melloblocco, the biggest bouldering meeting in the world, returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy. Pre-register online on www.melloblocco.it.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain...
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris...
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this...
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after...
The call of the Siren / Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
21/12/2022 - Alpinism
The call of the Siren / Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The call of the Siren, the film by Fulvio Mariani which documents the Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer, is online until 26 December.
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
16/12/2022 - Climbing
New Tsaranoro multipitch in Madagascar by Thibau Grandjean, Jan Novak
In July 2022 Jan Novak and Thibau Grandjean made the first ascent of Circoncision (150m, 7a+) a new 150m multipitch on Lemur Wall in the Tsaranoro mountains of Madagascar. Novak, usually behind the lens of his camera, reports.
Petition to protect Valle Cochamó in Patagonia Chile
08/12/2022 - Environment
Petition to protect Valle Cochamó in Patagonia Chile
An appeal has been launched to protect Cochamo Valley in Chile's Patagonia from being sold to private developers and to formally establish the area as a Nature Sanctuary.
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video
25/11/2022 - Alpinism
Saraghrar Piolet d'Or 2022 video
Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze from Georgia received the 2022 Piolets d'Or for the first ascent of the NW Face of Saraghrar Northwest in Pakistan.
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
09/11/2022 - Interviews
Big new Vampire Spires climbs in Canada, by Sebastian Pelletti & Co
Interview with Sebastian Pelletti after the first ascent of three new big routes in the Vampire Peaks area of Northwest Territories/Yukon in Canada, established with Michael Pedreros, Hernan Rodriguez Salas and the photographer Pato Diaz: 'Viaje Boreal' on Mount Dracula,...