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New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
31/07/2023 - Alpinism
New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra
On the gendarme Roi du Siam (3632m) in the Mont Blanc massif the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra have established the multi-pitch climb 'Calcul du Roi'. Bruni reports.
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
19/06/2023 - Alpinism
Alaska Big Wall: possible new climb up Cemetery Spire (Kichatnas) by Silvia Loreggian, Stefano Ragazzo
Italian mountaineers Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo have established what is likely to be a new climb on Cemetery Spire in the Cathedral Spires group of the Kichatna mountains in Alaska. Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+) was climbed with one bivy from 4 to 6 June 2023.
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
01/06/2023 - Alpinism
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.
Melloblocco 2023: the beauty and essence of bouldering, together
09/05/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: the beauty and essence of bouldering, together
The 16th edition of Melloblocco, the world's biggest bouldering and climbing meeting, came to a close on Sunday in Val Masino - Val di Mello, Italy. 2500 registered climbers underline the success of the event which has no other equals in the climbing world.
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
28/04/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Livingstone, Rob Smith climb NW Face of Aiguille du Blaitiere
British mountaineer Livingstone reports about his January ascent with Rob Smith of the North-West face of Aiguille du Blaitiere (3522m) in the Mont Blanc massif. In all likelihood the second half of their climb shares the line ascended by Joe Brown and Don Whillans in summer 1954.
Big new mixed climb on Mount Morrison, the Eiger of the Sierra, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko
25/04/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mount Morrison, the Eiger of the Sierra, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko
On 14 and 15 of April 2023 Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, Vitaliy Musienko made the first ascent of Troll Toll (600m, M5) on the ENE Face of Mount Morrison in California, USA. Located in the Sherwin Range of the Sierra Nevada, this mountain is also known as the 'Eiger of...
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
05/04/2023 - Events
Melloblocco 2023: a return to its roots
Melloblocco, the biggest climbing and bouldering meeting in the world, viewed through the eyes of the historic promoters Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti. Over 2000 climbers have already registered for the 16th edition which will be held in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy from 4 to...
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
27/03/2023 - Alpinism
Yacaré on Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia first ascended by Pedro Odell, Tomas Odell
On 01/02/2023 Argentine climbers Pedro Odell and Tomas Odell made the first ascent of Yacaré on the east face of Aguja Rafael Juárez in Patagonia. The 550m route was graded 6c+/A0 and climbed free a week later by Sean Villanueva and Pete Whittaker.
Melloblocco returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy
13/03/2023 - Climbing
Melloblocco returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy
From 4 to 7 May 2023 Melloblocco, the biggest bouldering meeting in the world, returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy. Pre-register online on www.melloblocco.it.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan
The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris Textor. The September 2022 trip resulted in series of fine...
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
20/02/2023 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines race up the legendary Gousseault-Desmaison
On 15 February 2022 French alpinists Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines needed less than 10 hours to climb the difficult ‘Gousseault-Desmaison’ on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. First ascended by René Desmaison and Serge Gousseaut in 1971, this is a difficult, historic and rarely repeated line up the...
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
16/01/2023 - Alpinism
New route on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia by Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza, Sean Villanueva
On 10/01/2023 Matteo Della Bordella, Leo Gheza and Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completed the first ascent of '¿Qué mirás, bobo?' (7b, 500m) on the east face of Aguja Mermoz (2732m) in the Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. After a bivouac on the summit the trio descended to El Chalten the next...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer
From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after travelling to the mountain by sailing boat from France with...
The call of the Siren / Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
21/12/2022 - Alpinism
The call of the Siren / Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The call of the Siren, the film by Fulvio Mariani which documents the Greenland climbing adventures of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer, is online until 26 December.

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