New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz

British rock climber Fay Manners reports about a climbing trip to Morocco towards the end of last year which resulted in the first ascents of three new trad climbs together with
1 / 9
Fay Manners climbing in Morocco
Daniel Coquoz

As soon as I arrived in Marrakesh, I was overwhelmed by the sensory overload. Wandering through the narrow alleyways of the medina, I encountered snake charmers, dancing monkeys, and the enticing aroma of tagine mingling with countless other smells. Despite the excitement, I felt a disconnect. The bustling streets were crowded with tourists, and everything seemed set up for us, the jewellery designed to appeal to Western tastes, the snakes posed for our photos. It didn’t feel entirely real. The multitude of smells; perfume, spices from the markets, the scent of animals was overwhelming.

As we drove out of Marrakesh and left the bustle behind, we found ourselves in remoteness; we could finally begin our climbing trip.

We drove south across the Anti-Atlas, from Tizi North down to Tafraout Granite. The region’s traditional climbing routes were particularly appealing to me due to their adventurous nature and as we moved from the bustling city to the serene mountains, I felt calm again.

Climbing takes you to raw and wild places, far from the typical tourist attractions. You’re there for the mountains, not for the curated experiences of the cities. This immersion allows you to see the place and its culture as they truly are, untouched and genuine, offering a deeper connection to the land and its people.

The landscape of Morocco’s climbing regions is both stark and stunning, characterized by a dry desert terrain with rocks and sand and trees that are not very green. Vast expanses of flat land allow you to see far into the distance, offering sweeping views. Mountain roads wind through the area, revealing gorges scattered with rock walls that are often red with streaks of white quartzite. These rock walls vary in size, frequently ranging from 50m to 300m tall. Scattered throughout the mountains are small villages, with some homes perched precariously on hillsides amidst rocks, leaving you to marvel at how they were built in such remote and rugged locations.

The climbing in the Anti-Atlas varied significantly across the different areas we explored. The rock was predominantly composed of sandstone and coarse-grained quartzite cliffs, which not only offered excellent climbing but were also stunningly beautiful. Some cliffs offered clean, straight-up cracks, perfect for traditional protection, while others were adorned with unique rock formations like chicken heads, ideal for threading slings through.

Throughout our climbs, I found myself relying on cams, particularly totem cams, far more than my rack of offset nuts. The abundance of extendable slings proved invaluable as routes often zigzagged unexpectedly, and slings were essential for wrapping around spikes. The pitches were notably long, with some stretching up to 55 meters. This meant my belayer had to wait patiently while I navigated the lengthy pitches, adding to the challenge of conserving the right gear for the unknown terrain higher up. The uncertainty of what protection would be needed near the top made each climb a thrilling and strategic adventure. Each cliff had its own appeal, and despite some rocks being dirty due to low traffic, the solid rock held great potential for new climbing routes.

The villages were where we bought our food inbetween climbing days. An old man would sit by his shop, selling a small selection of vegetables and some eggs. Meat wasn’t prepared; it was just live chickens being sold. And walking past would be women carrying baskets of branches stabilised by their heads to take home and feed their livestock. Others walking with their shopping carried by a donkey as the shop was too far from their home. I always find this raw, unfiltered way of life far more refreshing and grounding to experience. I imagined that many Moroccans escaped the cities to the mountains in the summer to seek cooler temperatures. When we were there, it was the beginning of winter, so the area was deserted. Rarely did we see anyone except for the stray dogs and cats searching for food and water.

It was climbing that took us to these places, not for the sake of finding an attraction, but for the adventure of the mountains and the escape they offer. With few climbers frequenting the area, chalk marks on routes are rare, and the descriptions, while good, can be complex to follow. Each move is a journey into the unknown with the added satisfaction of placing your own protection and always having to search for the best hold. The red rock, filled with cracks and crimps, seem to be meandering lines that aren’t always obvious from the ground.

Traditional rock climbing in the Anti-Atlas is an adventure in itself, but the thrill of discovering and climbing new routes makes it even more wild. So that is what we did. With Daniel Coquoz we ventured into a new gorge and climbed 3 new routes in an untouched area.

Fay Manners, January 2025

Les cactus à Dutronc
Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz 11/2024
E2, 5c. 5 pitches, 190m

Traversée amoureuse
Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz 11/2024
Grade E5 A0 6b. 4 pitches, 100m

Promenade aventureuse
Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz 11/2024
VS, 4c. 7 pitches, 330m




Related news
Latest news


Expo / News


Expo / Products
Merino Wool Mountaineering Sock.
Ever since its market launch, the Barryvox avalanche transceiver has been among the most reliable transceivers in the world.
Ferrino Extreme 2 is the lightest high-altitude tent on the market.
Scott skis, light enough for ski touring, and shaped for freeride skiing.
Waterproof thanks to HDry technology and crampon-compatible, the Dynafit WP Elevation is the lightest mountaineering shoe on the market.
Hiking boots AKU Superalp V-Light GTX, ideal for High Routes of the Dolomites and treks of several days
Show products