La Pomme d'Adam, mixed variation added to La Pomme d’Or in La Malbaie, Canada

La Pomme d’Or (WI5+, 350 m) is the great classic among Quebec’s long ice routes. Located in the heart of Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park, it stands as an essential benchmark in ice climbing, having earned international recognition comparable to Polar Circus.

This year, while rappelling La Pomme d’Or, I noticed the potential for a new direct mixed variation: an obvious crack cutting across the wall to reach the ice twenty meters higher, just five meters from the anchor. The inspiration was instantaneous: I was convinced it would go.

A few days later, I contacted Frédéric Maltais, a highly respected climber in Quebec and the author of numerous significant first ascents in the region. If I were going to attempt this project with anyone, it had to be him.

So we returned together to La Pomme d’Or by fat bike, heading up the Malbaie River in the dark, on one of those −25 °C days. The crack sits about 280 meters above the ground, and to reach it we climbed in simul-climbing style — quickly and efficiently — to the base of the dream pitch, then got to work.

After a long, frigid day working the moves, Fred completed the first ascent on toprope, while I fell near the top, where the ice thins out. After more than four hours hanging in the harness equipping the line in biting cold, I was too exhausted to give it a proper redpoint attempt. The line was far harder than expected: marginal holds, microscopic feet, long reaches — exactly what I’d hoped for.

A week later, after visualizing every move and every placement, rested and confident, we returned to attempt the lead ascent and complete the first free ascent of our project. February 10 turned out to be a perfect day: mild, with very little wind. We arrived early at the base of the pitch, looking up at the imposing twenty-meter wall of dark granite.

Fred, being the true friend and gentleman he is, let me take the sharp end first, placing the draws on the way up. I didn’t have high expectations of sending the redpoint, knowing I had fallen the previous week even on toprope. But being rested, focused, and calm played in my favor. I managed to link the pitch on my very first go, completing the first free ascent of the variation.

The relief was immediate. A huge weight lifted off my shoulders as I reached easier ground above the difficulties. We named this new section La Pomme d’Adam, graded WI6 M9. What a joy it was to climb this mixed gem on such a mythical route as La Pomme d’Or. Proud of the addition, we hope it will inspire other teams to go try this demanding pitch.

- Vincent Landry, Quebec, Canada

Route: La Pomme d’Or (WI5+, 350 m)
Variation: La Pomme d’Adam (WI6 M9)
Location: Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie
First ascent of variation: Vincent Landry and Frédéric Maltais, February 10th 2026
Gear needed for the FA: 8 quickdraws and 2 ice screws. 6 bolts have been installed