Laktosefrei added to Weißzint by Simon Gietl, Jakob Steinkasserer

On Saturday 9 May 2026, the two South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Jakob Steinkasserer opened a new mixed route on the little‑known north face of Weißzint, also called Punta Bianca, in the Zillertal Alps on the border between Italy and Austria.

After extensive consultation with local alpinists, it emerged that the entire granite wall contains only one other line, established back in 1935 by Fritz Kaspareck and Sepp Brunhuber via a direct route to the summit – a line that has been repeated only extremely rarely since then. On 19 May 2012, Florian Leitner and Florian Huber repeated this “forgotten” climb as a mixed route, rekindling interest in this 300‑metre‑high face.

The new line runs to the right of the historic route, through a very compact section of the wall rich in slabs. A thin ice line provided the logical line, interspersed with beautiful corners and distinct cracks. Gietl and Steinkasserer used a total of five pegs and two peckers, all left in-situ. In addition, they used a full set of cams from size 0 to 2 and some nuts.

According to the first ascensionists, Laktosefrei offers “impressive climbing on solid granite, which however is not always easy to protect. Despite the moderate difficulty (max M6), the route should certainly not be underestimated.”