Laktosefrei - Weißzint / Punta Bianca
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Simon Gietl archive
Laktosefrei on the north face of Weißzint / Punta Bianca line runs to the right of the historic route (Sepp Brunhuber, Fritz Kaspareck 1935), through a very compact section of the wall rich in slabs. A thin ice line provided the logical line, interspersed with beautiful corners and distinct cracks.
Laktosefrei offers impressive climbing on solid granite, which however is not always easy to protect. Despite the moderate difficulty (max M6), the route should certainly not be underestimated.
Drive through the Puster Valley into the Ahrntal Valley and turn off at Mühlen into the Mühlwalder Valley. Then follow the road to the Neves Reservoir (check in advance whether the road is open). Parking is available near the dam.
AccessCross the dam to the western side of the lake and follow the lakeside road to roughly the middle of the lake. From there, ascend via a clearly visible path into the Pfeifholdertal valley. As soon as you reach the tree line and enter open terrain, leave the path and climb up a slope to the right towards the Weißzint. At the end of the slope, you will see the Schlegeisscharte, which serves as a landmark. This pass takes you directly beneath the north face of the Weißzint.
DescentEither on foot or – more recommended – on skis via the Obere Weißzintscharte to the Edelrauthütte and then through the Pfeifholdertal back to the Nevessee.
NotesGietl and Steinkasserer used a total of five pegs and two peckers, all left in-situ. In addition, they used a full set of cams from size 0 to 2 and some nuts.
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