Tommy Caldwell & Siebe Vanhee make 24-hour free ascent of South African route on Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia

American climber Tommy Caldwell and his Belgian counterpart Siebe Vanhee have completed an unprecedented 24-hour free ascent of the South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, marking a landmark achievement in Patagonian alpinism.

The pair climbed the 1,200-metre route (5.12c) entirely free, with both climbers either leading or following every pitch every pitch free, starting at 3:20 a.m. on the 13th of February and topping out exactly 24 hours later at 3:20 a.m. on the 14th. The ascent represents the first one-day free ascent of the route and only the third free ascent overall since it was first climbed more than 50 years ago.

The achievement stands in stark contrast to the traditional approach to big walls in Patagonia, where teams are often pinned to the face for weeks at a time, living on portaledges and relying on fixed ropes for safety and descent.

"I’ve stood on top of this wall before, but this ascent felt completely different. To free-climb the South African Route in one continuous 24-hour push, in conditions where so much can go wrong, is one of the proudest moments I’ve had in the mountains — especially sharing it with a partner like Tommy." said Vanhee.

Caldwell added, "Patagonia always delivers! The "in-a-day style" made sense to me. But, honestly, I was pretty ignorant of the magnitude and seriousness of this wall: loose rock, lots of snow and ice, the fact that we had to haul a pretty big haul bag full of warm clothes and ice climbing gear to the top."

Vanhee and Caldwell devoted three weeks in Patagonia to the project, making two serious attempts prior to their successful bid: the first on 28–29 January, a second on 2–4 February. Each attempt was shaped by Patagonia’s notoriously unstable weather and highly variable rock conditions, where dry slabs can quickly turn icy and storms can arrive without warning.

Unlike capsule-style ascents, the team committed to a non-stop, single-push strategy, meaning they carried no portaledges, fixed no ropes for descent, and accepted that once on the wall, retreat options would be extremely limited.

The South African Route follows a striking corner system up the East Face of the Central Tower, and was first climbed in 1973–74 by a South African expedition in a pure, bolt-free style. The route was first climbed free in 2009 by Sean Villanueva, Nico Favresse, and Ben Ditto, who spent 13 days on the wall. Only one other team has succeeded in freeing the route prior to Vanhee and Caldwell’s ascent, namely by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow who made a team-free ascent in 2023.

During the successful push, Vanhee and Caldwell navigated sustained technical climbing, including 5.12c-graded crux pitches 14 and 15, followed by the demanding 60-metre 5.11+ offwidth of pitch 18 - all while managing fatigue, limited water, and the constant threat of deteriorating conditions. After nearly 19 hours of climbing, the pair switched from rock shoes to alpine boots before tackling the final 250 metres of low-angle alpine terrain and a committing summit ridge traverse in the dark. Immediately after reaching the summit, a storm moved in, forcing the climbers into an eight-hour descent in snow, wind, and poor visibility.

The 1-day free ascent pushes the boundaries of what is considered possible on Patagonia’s most serious granite walls, where success depends not only on climbing ability, but on precise timing, strategy, resilience, and partnership.

"Strategically this climb was perhaps more complex than others I have climbed in Patagonia. I think our strengths were our shared positivity and a willingness to just give it a try. Siebe is likely the most capable partner in the world for this kind of objective. This climb reinforced my long held belief that the ability to joke around and keep morale high, even when it's looking grim, is the secret ingredient to successful climbs in patagonia. I'm filled with gratitude for the partnership and delighted to find another partner who can share in the joy of suffering. We fought hard. This is not an experience I will soon forget", concluded Caldwell.

About the South African Route
Location: Central Tower, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile
Length: ~1,200 m / ~30 pitches
First Ascent: 1973–74, South African team (A4/5 technique)
First Free Ascent: 2009 — Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll, Ben Ditto (13 days)
Subsequent notable free ascents: 2023 by Tyler Karow, Cedar Christensen, Imanol Amundarain