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Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985
The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer
From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.
Igor Koller appeals against access restrictions to Tatra National Park
05/03/2019 - Environment
Igor Koller appeals against access restrictions to Tatra National Park
Slovak mountaineer Igor Koller appeals to all mountaineers, climbers, walkers, ski mountaineers against restrictions within the Tatra National Park. An online petition has been created to safeguard access to these mountains in Slovakia.
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent!
23/02/2019 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent!
On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later, Switzerland’s Caro North and Argentinia’s Carlos Molina also completed the...
Matterhorn West Face climbed in winter by Marco Farina and Marco Majori
21/02/2019 - Alpinism
Matterhorn West Face climbed in winter by Marco Farina and Marco Majori
From 15 to 16 February 2019 Marco Farina and Marco Majori completed a rare repeat of Via Ottin - Daguin up the west face of the Matterhorn.
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.
Paragliding in Patagonia, Aaron Durogati makes Fitz Roy flyby
13/02/2019 - Alpinism
Paragliding in Patagonia, Aaron Durogati makes Fitz Roy flyby
In January 2019 Aaron Durogati, Italian paragliding champion and exceptional mountaineer, flew with his paraglider off some of the most beautiful peaks in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs in Patagonia.
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
31/12/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites
Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
Fitz Roy Supercanaleta climbed in Patagonia by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
05/12/2018 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Supercanaleta climbed in Patagonia by Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli, Federico Secchi
From 25 - 28 November 2018 the Italian alpinists Michele Colturi, Federico Martinelli and Federico Secchi repeated the famous Supercanaleta route up Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview
04/12/2018 - Interviews
David Lama / The Lunag Ri Solo Interview
Interview with David Lama after his October 2018 solo first ascent of Lunag Ri, the 6907m mountain on the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley
03/12/2018 - Alpinism
Le Quatuor à cordes, new climb up Lobuche East above Nepal's Khumbu valley
Himalayan climbing: French mountaineers Aurélien Vaissière, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot and Symon Welfringer have established Le Quattro à Cordes, a new route up Lobuche East (6120m) above the Khumbu valley in Nepal.
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
30/11/2018 - Alpinism
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
The Central Couloir of A Peak in the Cabinet Mountains, Montana, USA, has been climbed by Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron.
Himjung in Nepal / Vitus Auer, Sebastian Fuchs, Stefan Larcher climb new route up 7000er
23/11/2018 - Alpinism
Himjung in Nepal / Vitus Auer, Sebastian Fuchs, Stefan Larcher climb new route up 7000er
Climbing alpine style for 3 days, mountaineers Vitus Auer, Sebastian Fuchs and Stefan Larcher have established a new route up Mt. Himjung (7092 m) in Nepal.
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
15/11/2018 - Alpinism
Mugu Peaks in Nepal, new route climbed by Anna Torretta, Cecilia Buil, Ixchel Foord
The report by Italian mountaineer Anna Torretta who with Cecilia Buil from Spain and Ixchel Foord from Mexico made the first ascent of Couloir SW (600m, A1, 6a, M5), a new climb up the virgin Mugu Peaks (5467 meters) in the Karnali district of NW Nepal.

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