428 News found

10/07/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0 Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and the summit of Mont Blanc.

05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs 58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...

27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°

11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...

04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.

13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.

26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...

11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985 The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.

18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.

05/03/2019 - Environment
Igor Koller appeals against access restrictions to Tatra National Park Slovak mountaineer Igor Koller appeals to all mountaineers, climbers, walkers, ski mountaineers against restrictions within the Tatra National Park. An online petition has been created to safeguard access to these mountains in Slovakia.

23/02/2019 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur Cassin route: double one-day winter ascent! On Tuesday 19 February the French alpinists Léo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines carried out a one-day winter ascent of the Cassin route up the Walker Spur on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. A few hours later, Switzerland’s Caro North and Argentinia’s Carlos Molina also completed the...

21/02/2019 - Alpinism
Matterhorn West Face climbed in winter by Marco Farina and Marco Majori From 15 to 16 February 2019 Marco Farina and Marco Majori completed a rare repeat of Via Ottin - Daguin up the west face of the Matterhorn.

14/02/2019 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast in the Pale di San Martino, Dolomites Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.

13/02/2019 - Alpinism
Paragliding in Patagonia, Aaron Durogati makes Fitz Roy flyby In January 2019 Aaron Durogati, Italian paragliding champion and exceptional mountaineer, flew with his paraglider off some of the most beautiful peaks in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs in Patagonia.

31/12/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).
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