418 News found

15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.

12/08/2019 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru Climbing alpine style, Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh have established a new route up Huandoy North (6360m) in Peru.

08/08/2019 - Alpinism
Muztagh Tower Black Tooth, first ascent details by Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer Details of the first ascent of Black Tooth, the 6718m mountain next to Muztagh Tower in the Karakorum, Pakistan, carried out by Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer on 26 July 2019.

07/08/2019 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez, Aymeric Clouet climb Eiger's La Vida es Silbar Swiss climbers Nina Caprez and Aymeric Clouet have repeated 'La Vida es Silbar' up the North Face of the Eiger.

28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on the face.

18/07/2019 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz adds new climb to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites On the south face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Christoph Hainz and Gerda Schwienbacher have established Via Grohmann - Hainz, a big new rock climb timed to celebrate the first ascent the mountain carried out 150 years ago, on 21 August 1869 by the Austrian mountaineer Paul Grohmann together...

10/07/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille Noire, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and Mont Blanc. Integral 2.0 Denis Trento reports about a fast ascent of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey carried out by Marco Farina and Gabriele Carrara combined, the next day with Trento himself, with the Via Bonatti - Oggioni up the Pilier Rouge du Brouillard and the summit of Mont Blanc.

05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs 58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...

27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

20/06/2019 - Interviews
Tomas Franchini and his solo ascent of Lamo She in China Interview with the Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini after his solo ascent of the virgin East Face of Lamo She (6070m) in China. The 1500m new climb is called Wild Blood and was graded WI5, M5, V°, 90°

11/06/2019 - Alpinism
Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...

04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.

13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.

26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...

11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985 The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.

18/03/2019 - Alpinism
Divine Providence on Mont Blanc climbed in winter by Xavier Cailhol, Symon Welfringer From 17- 19 February 2019 young French alpinists Xavier Cailhol and Symon Welfringer made a winter ascent of Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d’Angle, one of the most famous routes in the Mont Blanc massif.
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