428 News found

Alpinists Corrado Korra Pesce and Will Sim have repeated Voie des Papas / Via Bonatti on the SW Pillar of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.

Maximilian Buck reports about the first winter ascent of Franz Rasp Ged. Weg up the huge east face of Watzmann (Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany), carried out in December 2020 with Lando Peters.

The video of the first ascent of El Flechazo on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, established by Belgian mountaineers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in February 2020 with two bivouacs.

Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.

The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three bivouacs.

In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...

Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.

In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.

Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.

Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...

Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.

Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...

Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...

French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.

Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...