418 News found

14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.

12/08/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d’Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs Four remarkable ascents will be awarded the Piolets d'Or 2020 at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland from 11 - 22 September: Chamlang by Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák, Tengi Ragi Tau by Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva, Link Sar by Mark Richey, Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman...

05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...

23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.

16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...

08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
of significant ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...

03/07/2020 - Alpinism
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.

22/06/2020 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti would have turned 90 today In order to remember the great mountaineer and extremely special man who passed away in 2011, we’ve published the thoughts and memories of his inseparable life partner Rossana Podestà.

11/06/2020 - Alpinism
Not so far #3, Hervé Barmasse climbing the Matterhorn The third and final episode of the film Not so far featuring Hervé Barmasse and his new route, climbed solo in 2011, up Picco Muzio on the Matterhorn.

04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.

28/04/2020 - Alpinism
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.

28/04/2020 - Alpinism
Viacruxis, Marcel and Andrezj complete legendary animated climb The award-winning short Viacruxis directed by Ignasi López, featuring the mountaineers Marcel and Andrezj battling to summit one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world.

25/03/2020 - Environment
Do your part Now more than ever we are called upon to do our part. We must stay at home for everyone’s good, in order to regain happiness and also the freedom to return to the mountains.

12/03/2020 - Alpinism
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For Friends On the North Face of Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climbed Za prijatelje, For Friends. This combination of four summer rock climbs transforms into a logical winter line circa 1000m high and was climbed with one bivouac from 15-16 February 2020. This is probably...

05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
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