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Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge...
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič climb new route up Mt. Huntington in Alaska
04/05/2021 - Alpinism
Ines Papert, Luka Lindič climb new route up Mt. Huntington in Alaska
Ines Papert from Germany and Luka Lindič from Slovenia have established Heart of Stone, a new mixed climb up the west face of Mt. Huntington (3731m) in Alaska.
Legrima on Langkofel, Dolomites, finally repeated by Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
09/03/2021 - Alpinism
Legrima on Langkofel, Dolomites, finally repeated by Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 21 to 22 December 2020 Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth from the South Tyrol Italy, completed the first repeat of La Legrima on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites. The difficult mixed climb was...
Simon Gietl completes winter solo of Große Mauer on Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
05/03/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes winter solo of Große Mauer on Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
Yesterday Simon Gietl made a winter solo ascent of Große Mauer / Grande Muro on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites. The mountaineer the South Tyrol, Italy, returned to valley by paraglider.
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
04/03/2021 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time...
Corrado Pesce, Will Sim repeat Petit Dru SW Pillar in Mont Blanc massif
01/03/2021 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce, Will Sim repeat Petit Dru SW Pillar in Mont Blanc massif
Alpinists Corrado Korra Pesce and Will Sim have repeated Voie des Papas / Via Bonatti on the SW Pillar of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
17/02/2021 - Alpinism
Watzmann East Face climbed in winter by Max Buck and Lando Peters
Maximilian Buck reports about the first winter ascent of Franz Rasp Ged. Weg up the huge east face of Watzmann (Berchtesgaden Alps, Germany), carried out in December 2020 with Lando Peters.
Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
25/12/2020 - Alpinism
Video: Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva climbing El Flechazo up Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
The video of the first ascent of El Flechazo on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia, established by Belgian mountaineers Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll in February 2020 with two bivouacs.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
25/11/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Pale di San Lucano: big new climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
The South Tyrolean mountaineers Alex Walpoth, Titus Prinoth and Martin Dejori have made the first ascent of Guardiano dei Sogni on Terza Pala di San Lucano, Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites. This big, 1400m new route was established with three...
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand
In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original...
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
21/11/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing on Greenland's Sharks Tooth: the film featuring Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Christian Ledergerber
Tonight at 8.00 pm the film 'The Great Shark Hunt: Climb and kayak in Greenland', documenting the by fair means climbing expedition to Greenland carried out in 2014 by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili...
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
09/09/2020 - Alpinism
Czech Direct on Punta Ferrario in Val Masino freed by Paolo Marazzi, Giacomo Regallo
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was...
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
14/08/2020 - Alpinism
Paraclimbers Massimo Coda, Andrea Lanfri summit Mont Blanc
Interview with Andrea Lanfri who climbed Mont Blanc via the normal Italian route with Massimo Coda. In all likelihood they are theirs is the first paraclimbing partnership to achieve this undertaking.