418 News found

On Friday 26 August the Alberico - Borgna bivouac, located close to Col de la Fourche on the SE Ridge of Mont Maudit in the Mont Blanc massif was completely destroyed due to a landslide.

In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.

Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).

From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.

On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.

Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.

In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video and Priti's smash and grab trip report, that follows their...

Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand have made the coveted second ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6880m) in India, first climbed by British mountaineers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976.

15 years ago today Hansjörg Auer set a major milestone in mountaineering history with his daring free solo of the Via Through the Fish on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites

On Pizzo Badile in Italy Swiss alpinists Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach have made a winter ascent of the British route, first ascended in 1968 by Mike Kosterlitz and Dick Isherwood.

The report by Swiss mountaineer Silvan Schüpbach who recently established two new mixed climbs in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn with Janluca Kostner and Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten with Michel Kipf and Tizian Tobler.

On 08/03/2022 Laura Tiefenthaler from Austria and Jana Möhrer from Germany repeated the classic Heckmair route on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. Tiefenthaler reports.

Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, Italy, has made the first traverse of all the main summits of the famous Rosengarten / Catinaccio skyline in the Dolomites. The 38-year-old mountain guide carried out the crossing alone and in winter.

On 27/02/2022 Italian alpinist Davide Sassudelli flew off the summit of Campanile Basso (2877m) in the Brenta Dolomites after having climbed via Preuss with Matteo Pavana and Stefano Piatti. This is the first paraglider flight from the most famous tower in the Dolomites.

Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.

With their repeat of the Gogna-Cerruti climb on the Matterhorn the French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines have completed their project of climbing the three great north faces of the Alps in winter via three Direttissima.