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Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
25/08/2022 - Alpinism
Peak Slesova Buttress: Federica Mingolla, Niccolò Bartoli establish a big wall in Kyrgyzstan’s Ak-Su Valley
In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik...
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition
Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
02/08/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Siula Grande in Peru by Matteo Della Bordella, Marco Majori
From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
01/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and...
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
17/07/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
07/06/2022 - Alpinism
Torre Egger Traverse in Patagonia by Priti Wright, Jeff Wright
In January 2022 Priti and Jeff Wright traversed three of the four peaks in the Patagonian Cerro Torre range: Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron and Torre Egger, linking three different routes: Festerville, Spigolo dei Bimbi and Espejo del Viento. The video...
Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes
09/05/2022 - Alpinism
Changabang West Wall repeated after 46 years by Daniel Joll, Kim Ladiges, Matthew Scholes
Kim Ladiges and Matthew Scholes from Australia and Daniel Joll from New Zealand have made the coveted second ascent of the West Wall of Changabang (6880m) in India, first climbed by British mountaineers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker in 1976.
Hansjörg Auer Fish route solo on Marmolada 15 years ago today
29/04/2022 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer Fish route solo on Marmolada 15 years ago today
15 years ago today Hansjörg Auer set a major milestone in mountaineering history with his daring free solo of the Via Through the Fish on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites
Pizzo Badile British route climbed in winter by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
01/04/2022 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile British route climbed in winter by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
On Pizzo Badile in Italy Swiss alpinists Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach have made a winter ascent of the British route, first ascended in 1968 by Mike Kosterlitz and Dick Isherwood.
Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn & Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten climbed in Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
17/03/2022 - Alpinism
Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn & Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten climbed in Bernese Oberland, Switzerland
The report by Swiss mountaineer Silvan Schüpbach who recently established two new mixed climbs in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland: Putins Paranoia Trip on Ärmighorn with Janluca Kostner and Peace for Ukraine on Nüschleten with Michel Kipf and Tizian Tobler.
Eiger North Face Heckmair route climbed in a day by Laura Tiefenthaler, Jana Möhrer
15/03/2022 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face Heckmair route climbed in a day by Laura Tiefenthaler, Jana Möhrer
On 08/03/2022 Laura Tiefenthaler from Austria and Jana Möhrer from Germany repeated the classic Heckmair route on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. Tiefenthaler reports.
Simon Gietl completes first traverse of Rosengarten skyline, Dolomites, solo and in winter
06/03/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes first traverse of Rosengarten skyline, Dolomites, solo and in winter
Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, Italy, has made the first traverse of all the main summits of the famous Rosengarten / Catinaccio skyline in the Dolomites. The 38-year-old mountain guide carried out the crossing alone and in winter.
Davide Sassudelli paraglides off Campanile Basso in Brenta Dolomites
04/03/2022 - Alpinism
Davide Sassudelli paraglides off Campanile Basso in Brenta Dolomites
On 27/02/2022 Italian alpinist Davide Sassudelli flew off the summit of Campanile Basso (2877m) in the Brenta Dolomites after having climbed via Preuss with Matteo Pavana and Stefano Piatti. This is the first paraglider flight from the most famous tower...
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
21/02/2022 - Interviews
Charles Dubouloz, Les Grandes Jorasses and his Rolling Stones winter solo
Interview with French mountaineer Charles Dubouloz who from 13 to 18 January 2022 made the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb Matterhorn to complete Winter Direttissima Alpine Trilogy
11/02/2022 - Alpinism
Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines climb Matterhorn to complete Winter Direttissima Alpine Trilogy
With their repeat of the Gogna-Cerruti climb on the Matterhorn the French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines have completed their project of climbing the three great north faces of the Alps in winter via three Direttissima.
Corrado Korra Pesce perishes on Cerro Torre / The climb, accident and rescue attempt. By Matteo Della Bordella
31/01/2022 - Alpinism
Corrado Korra Pesce perishes on Cerro Torre / The climb, accident and rescue attempt. By Matteo Della Bordella
The El Chalten mountain rescue has announced that there is no longer any hope of finding Corrado 'Korra' Pesce alive. The Italian mountain guide was hit by rock and ice high up on Cerro Torre along with his Argentine climbing...