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Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
27/02/2024 - Alpinism
Huge Langkofel Dolomites first ascent by Martin Feistl, Simon Gietl
On 2 and 3 February Martin Feistl and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of Aura (M6 AI5, 1200m) a new mixed climb on the northeast face of Langkofel / Sassolungo above Val Gardena in the Dolomites.
Big new mixed climb on Civetta (Dolomites) by Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli, Mathieu Maynadier
19/01/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Civetta (Dolomites) by Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli, Mathieu Maynadier
From 15-16 January 2024 the mountaineers Christian Casanova, Francesco Favilli and Mathieu Maynadier made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Mixte feeling' on the north-east face of Civetta in the Dolomites. Established with one bivouac, the 560m route breaches difficulties up to M6+/WI5.
Nemuel Feurle repeats Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
11/01/2024 - Climbing
Nemuel Feurle repeats Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia
At the start of January 2024 Austrian climber Nemuel Feurle, together with Lea Kempf, repeated 'Hotel Supramonte' (8b, 400m) in Sardinia.
Dolomites Ultima Perla on Agner North Face climbed ground-up by Simon Gietl, Lukas Hinterberger, Michi Wohlleben
31/12/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Ultima Perla on Agner North Face climbed ground-up by Simon Gietl, Lukas Hinterberger, Michi Wohlleben
From 27 to 29 December 2023 Simon Gietl, Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben carried out the first ground-up ascent of 'Ultima perla' on the North Face of Agner in Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites.
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
19/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated to the memory of Jan Ros.
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth
From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
Cerro San Valentin North Ridge climbed in Patagonia by Oriol Baro, Martín Elías, Nicolas Tapia
11/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cerro San Valentin North Ridge climbed in Patagonia by Oriol Baro, Martín Elías, Nicolas Tapia
Climbing alpine style from 4 - 8 December 2023, Oriol Baro, Martín Elías and Nicolas Tapia completed the first ascent of 'Arista Norte' (WI5, M5 3000m), a 'dream line' up the North Ridge of Cerro San Valentin (4058m) in Patagonia.
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
29/11/2023 - Alpinism
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
The Carrel hut on the Matterhorn will be moved to avoid rockfall. The new bivouac will be built a few meters from its current location and should be inaugurated in summer 2024. The cost of demolition and reconstruction is in the regione of two million euros.
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
27/11/2023 - Alpinism
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
On the north face of Agner (Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites) Nicola Bertoldo and Diego Dellai have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Ultima Perla (350m, 5+, M6, 50°).
New Czech climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal by Marek Disman, Jakub Vlček
08/11/2023 - Alpinism
New Czech climb on Tengi Ragi Tau in Nepal by Marek Disman, Jakub Vlček
From 29 - 31 October 2023 Czech mountaineers Jakub Vlček and Marek Disman have made the first ascent of 'Honzova cesta' on Tengi Ragi Tau (6938m) in Rolwaling Himal, Nepal.
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
20/10/2023 - Interviews
Jannu North Face: interview with Alan Rousseau after Alpine Style ascent with Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell
Interview with Alan Rousseau after the alpine style ascent, carried out with Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell from 7 - 13 October 2023, of the North Face of Jannu via their 'Round Trip Ticket' (2700m, M7 AI5+ A0).
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...

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