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Léo Billon & Enzo Oddo establish 'Les Barbares 3' on Pré de Bar (Mont Blanc massif)
25/02/2025 - Alpinism
Léo Billon & Enzo Oddo establish 'Les Barbares 3' on Pré de Bar (Mont Blanc massif)
From 18 - 20 February 2025 French alpinists Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo made the first ascent of 'Les Barbares 3' on Pré de Bar in the Mont Blanc massif.
Benjamin Védrines completes Petit Dru winter solo climb via BASE
24/02/2025 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes Petit Dru winter solo climb via BASE
From 17 to 21 February 2025, French climber Benjamin Védrines completed a solo winter ascent of the BASE route on the West Face of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.
'Kundalini' added to Cuerno Norte in Torres del Paine (Patagonia) by Nicolas Navarrete, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
20/02/2025 - Alpinism
'Kundalini' added to Cuerno Norte in Torres del Paine (Patagonia) by Nicolas Navarrete, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
Nicolas Navarrete, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez have made the first ascent of 'Kundalini' (700m, 7a) on the East Face of Cuerno Norte in the Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile.
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
18/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
14/02/2025 - Alpinism
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
From 8-10 February 2025, the team of Polish climbers consisting of Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel and Tomek Klimczak made the first free ascent of the classic 'Direttissima' on the east face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch, 450m mixed climb is now graded VII M8+ and was...
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
31/01/2025 - Alpinism
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
Last August, the Italians Daniele Bonzi, Francesco Fumagalli and Thomas Triboli travelled to the Fox Jaw Cirque in East Greenland, where they completed the first traverse of the first three towers: Baby Molar, Molar, and Incisor. Named 'Trident VI Orobica', the route involves 1,000 metres of climbing over 21 pitches,...
New climb on Cima Busazza in Italy in honour of Tomas Franchini
23/01/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Cima Busazza in Italy in honour of Tomas Franchini
On the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group, Emanuele Andreozzi and Silvestro Franchini have made the first ascent of Tomas. The new mixed climb is dedicated to Silvestro's brother, Tomas Franchini, who perished last summer on Mount Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
Ondrej Huserka missing on Langtang Lirung after East Face first ascent with Marek Holeček
02/11/2024 - Alpinism
Ondrej Huserka missing on Langtang Lirung after East Face first ascent with Marek Holeček
Slovakian mountaineer Ondrej Huserka is reported missing on Langtang Lirung in Nepal after having made the first ascent of the huge East Face with Marek Holeček. Holeček has descended safely and a rescue mission is currently being organised.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland
A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan
01/10/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan
Japanese climbers Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida and Yudai Suzuki have made the first ascent of the West Face of Thui II (6523m) in Pakistan. 'Spider’s Thread' (ED+, M7, A2, 1450m) was climbed alpine style over a period of 4 days and is likely to be only the second ascent of...
Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum
24/09/2024 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler & Victor Saunders make first ascent of Yawash Sar (6258m) in Karakorum
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders have made the first ascent of Yawash Sar, a 6,258m peak in Pakistan's Karakoram climbed via the NW Face. Climbing alpine style, the pair summited on 14 September.
Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza
18/09/2024 - Alpinism
Eclissi established on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) by Luca Ducoli, Leo Gheza
The report by Leonardo Gheza who, earlier this summer with Luca Ducoli, established the multi-pitch 'Eclissi' (8a, 280m) on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites). This is Gheza's second new route here after 'Monologica', first ascended in 2023 with Angelo Contessi.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed
The Ettore Canzio bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic Alpine Club, owner of the huts, provides the details.

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