First ascent of Chumik Kangri by Michał Czech, Wadim Jabłoński, Adam Kaniak

A team composed of Michał Czech and Wadim Jabłoński from Poland, and Slovak climber Adam Kaniak completed the first ascent of Chumik Kangri (6,754 m) in the Karakoram. Their new line, named The Great Gig in the Sky, climbs the mountain’s south face for about 1,100 meters with difficulties up to M6 and A1. The ascent took place over three days, from 14–16 September 2025.

The region where Chumik Kangri lies is strongly militarized and borders a disputed zone controlled by India - moving deeper into the valley brought increasing numbers of military checkpoints. Because the mountain was in a newly opened sector, the team passed through various army outposts and checkpoints, but thanks to a capable agent managing paperwork and coordination, the process was relatively smooth. The permit also required them to carry a liaison officer for the entire expedition, as is standard for Pakistani peaks above 6,500 m, especially in border zones. They were apparently the first foreign tourists in that valley in 45 years, which led locals and security forces wanting to host them.

With little information available, the trio relied largely on maps and their own observations to plan the line and its possible bivouac sites. They even held a permit for another peak (Gharkun), which looked intriguing from satellite photos, but the team ultimately decided Chumik offered a better balance of objective danger, technical intrigue, and chance of success.

The alpinists began the climb at night to cross dangerous snow and ice fields before rockfall activity increased. Higher up, the line followed a prominent pillar that offered demanding rock and mixed terrain, with exposed traverses and sections of fragile blocks. Two bivouacs, at 6,250 and 6,600 meters, provided brief rest before summit push. Despite these difficulties, they reached the top on 16 September.

The descent proved no less committing. They chose a line they had plotted from maps and reconnaissance, but the reality turned out harsher than anticipated. The ridge they descended ran through seracs and sections of poor-quality ice, and they confronted loose, unstable rock. A lot of rappels, including a 400-meter drop, were required. Much of the descent was done in darkness, which reduced the risk of falling stones.

The climbers regard The Great Gig in the Sky as one of their most serious undertakings to date, combining high altitude with technical difficulty and significant uncertainty. For them, the ascent represents a major step in exploratory alpinism in the Karakoram.

Tthe team wishes to acknowledge its sponsors: PZA & the Polish Ministry of Sport & Tourism, the Slovak JAMES, as well as Millet, Mountain Equipment, Lyofood, Marva, Adventure Menu, and their Pakistani agent Ali Saltoro of Adventure Guides Pakistan.