Charles Dubouloz makes winter solo ascent of Divine Providence

From 9 - 14 December French alpinist Charles Dubouloz completed a coveted winter solo ascent of Divine Providence on Grand Pilier d'Angle above the wild Brenva basin in the Mont Blanc massic. Established from 5 to 8 August 1984 by two of France’s leading alpinists, Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny, over time the route has transformed into one of the most famous in the entire Alps. The first solo ascent was made by Jean Christophe Lafaille in August 1990, while the first winter solo was carried out by Alain Ghersen from 10-14 February 1993.

On Sunday, December 7th, Dubouloz left his home in Annecy by bicycle, towing a trailer loaded with mountaineering gear for 120km before reaching Chamonix. From here, accompanied by Antoine Bouqueret, he ascended the entire 2,500-meter elevation gain of the Mer de Glace on touring skis. Two other climbing partners joined the duo to help transport all the necessary gear to the base of the route, allowing Dubouloz to begin Divine Providence alone, three days after leaving Annecy.

For the next six days and five nights the 36-year-old mountain slowly worked his way up the mountain, encountering extreme and varied mixed terrain, pitches up to 7b and poorly protectable snow sections, and 5 nights spent in precarious hanging bivouacs.

Dubouloz exited the Grand Pilier d'Angle on Saturday, December 13th and due to the difficulties and fatigue, aggravated by the bike and ski touring approach, he opted for another bivouac above 4,000 meters before continuing the ascent the next moring via the legendary Peuterey Ridge. He reached the summit of Mont Blanc on Sunday, December 14th, at around 2:00 PM; unfavorable weather conditions prevented him from paragliding off the summit, hence he returned to Chamonix on foot. Over the remarkable eight-day period he lost 8 kg.

From 13 to 18 January 2022 Dubouloz completed the first winter solo of Rolling Stones on the Grandes Jorasses, while in March 2021 he spent three days making a winter solo of the North Face of Aiguilles du Dru (Les Drus) via the Pierre Allain route. His latest spectacular ascent - in winter garb - has been described by his team as "the most intimate and demanding chapter of his career to date". Conditions permitting, it is likely to be followed up by other climbs across the Alps.

Divine Providence, Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc
First ascent: Patrick Gabarrou, François Marsigny, 5 - 8 August 1984
First repeat: Michel Fauquet, Pierre-André Rhem, David Ravanel, Jérôme Ruby 07/1989
First free ascent: Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault 13-14/07/1990, third ascent
First solo: Jean Christophe Lafaille, 4-5/08/1990, fourth ascent
First winter ascent to top of Grand Pilier d’Angle: Roberto Bressan, Saverio Occhi and Paolo Tamagnini, 1992. Bad weather forced them to retreat.
First complete winter ascent: Brendan Murphy, Dave Wills 24-28/12/1992
First winter solo: Alain Ghersen 10-14/02/1993
First female ascent: Nina Caprez, with Merlin Benoit 07/2016