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Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment
25/02/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment
From 24 to 25 February the South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl carried out a winter crossing of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo on his own, linking Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
25/02/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella reports about his repeat with Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Pasquetto of the 40º Gruppo Ragni di Lecco climb on the north face of Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia, established in 1986 by Mario Panzeri, Paolo Vitali, Marco Della Santa and Daniele Bosisio. While this is likely...
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
19/02/2020 - Alpinism
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
On Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia Belgian climbers Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll have made the first ascent the mixed climb El Flechazo (850m, 7b, M3, WI5+).
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
13/02/2020 - Alpinism
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
31/01/2020 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
24/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
16/09/2019 - Alpinism
Uncertain Future scoped on Dolomites Spiz de la Lastia by Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata
On Spiz de le Lastia in the Agner group, Dolomites, Lorenzo Corso, Diego Toigo, Luca Vallata have made the first ascent of Futuro Incerto. Diego Toigo reports about the climb, established with one bivouac from 18 to 19 August 2019.
Cédric Lachat fires first one day ascent of Fly in Lauterbrunnental
13/09/2019 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat fires first one day ascent of Fly in Lauterbrunnental
Swissman Cédric Lachat, climbing with Tobias Suter, has made the first repeat and first one day ascent of Fly, the difficult multi-pitch climb in Lauterbrunnental, Switzerland.
New multi-pitch up Petit Mont Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
11/09/2019 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Petit Mont Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Camillo Bussolati reports about the first ascent of Lloverà y yo verè, a new rock climb up the west face of Petit Mont Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif, established in summer 2019 with Matteo Castellini and Francesco Crescini.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
09/09/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
The solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West carried out by Hansjörg Auer, the solo ascent of Lunag Ri carried out by David Lama and the ascent of Latok 1 completed by Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar are the ascents honoured by the Piolet d’Or 2019.The press release of...
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
03/09/2019 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
Vlad Capusan remembers his friend and climbing partner Zsolt Török, one of Romania’s foremost mountaineers who lost his life in a climbing accident on 14 August 2019 in the Făgăraș mountains.
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
28/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Richardson and Ian Welsted traverse Mount Waddington West Ridge in Canada
British mountaineer Simon Richardson reports about the first ascent of the entire west ridge of Mount Waddington in Canada’s Coast Mountains, climbed with Ian Welsted alpine style from 3 to 7 August 2019. On 22 July the duo climbed the North Face of Mount Phillips in the Canadian Rockies.
French climb Civetta's Colonne d’Ercole onsight in Dolomites
24/08/2019 - Alpinism
French climb Civetta's Colonne d’Ercole onsight in Dolomites
Symon Welfringer reports about his repeat, with fellow French alpinists Antonin Cechini and Aurélien Vaissière, of Colonne d’Ercole up the NW Face of Civetta in the Dolomites. The 1200m route up Punta Tissi was first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini with difficulties up to IX and...
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
16/08/2019 - Alpinism
Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
On the north face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have made the first ascent of Parole Sante, a new1050m route with difficulties up to VIII A1.