Home page Planetmountain.com
François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti repeating the Super Integrale de Peuterey, also referred to as the Frêney trilogy, on Mont Blanc, 07/2020
Photo by François Cazzanelli / Francesco Ratti
François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti bivying while repeating the Super Integrale de Peuterey, also referred to as the Frêney trilogy, on Mont Blanc, 07/2020
Photo by François Cazzanelli / Francesco Ratti
François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti repeating the Super Integrale de Peuterey, also referred to as the Frêney trilogy, on Mont Blanc, 07/2020
Photo by François Cazzanelli / Francesco Ratti
Renato Casarotto on the Grandes Jorasses
Photo by archivio Goretta Casarotto

Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto

di

Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of Mont Blanc. The so-called Super Integrale de Peutèrey, or Frêney trilogy, was climbed in 1982 by the great Italian mountaineer Renato Casarotto alone and in winter during an epic ascent that has gone down in the history of mountaineering as one of the all-time greatest climbs.




On Mont Blanc the two Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have completed a summer repeat of Super Integral de Peutèrey, also referred to as the Frêney trilogy, carried out for the first time in winter in February 1982 by Renato Casarotto.

The two young Matterhorn mountain guides set off on Wednesday, July 29th from Freney at the bottom of Val Veny where the path to the Monzino refuge begin. 46 hours later they reached Combal, where the path to the Gonnella refuge starts. They returned safely on July 31st having completed a fast ascent of this extremely technical enchainment.

Cazzanelli and Ratti climbed the classi Ratti - Vitali route (Vittorio Ratti, Gigi Vitali 1939) on the West Face of the Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey and followed this up by climbing the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina where they bivouacked below a large boulder due to an onsetting storm. The following day they ascended the Central Pillar of Freney via the line first ascended by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz and Don Whillans in 1961, and after reaching the summit of Mont Blanc they continued down to the Gonnella refuge. After a short reste, they descended to Cabane du Combal and returned to their starting point at 11pm on July 31st.

While Cazzanelli and Ratti completed the enchainment as quickly as possible, 38 years ago Casarotto climbed alone and in winter. His aim, back then on the Frêney trilogy, was to achieve a perfect symbiosis between Man and Nature.

Mountaineering and mountaineers have changed, as has the climbing gear, the climate, and the mountains themselves. having said that, the desire to explore the mountains and one’s own limits, has not changed in the slighting.

The duo climbed with only a minimum amount of gear; a rucksack, provisions and a sleeping bag.

Links: www.francoiscazzanelli.itFB François CazzanelliFB Francesco Rattifrancescoratti.blogspot.comMillet MountainGarmin, Salewa, Grivel

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Renato Casarotto and the Peutérey Super Integral, an unrepeatable alpinism and adventure
31.01.2015
Renato Casarotto and the Peutérey Super Integral, an unrepeatable alpinism and adventure
32 years after Renato Casarotto's ascent of Frêney trilogy, also known as the Super Integral di Peutèrey (Mont Blanc), Ivo Ferrari remembers the great Italian alpinist.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
13.07.2020
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was carried out on 8 July 2020 by the trio with fellow mountain guide Isaie Maquignaz on 08/07/2020.
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
03.07.2020
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
24.01.2020
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
22.07.2019
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required just 15 hours and 55 minutes.
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
01.06.2019
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24.09.2018
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
20.09.2018
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra