Gianluca Vighetti sends Niobe and Lapsus

Gianluca Vighetti continues his meteoric rise to the upper echlons of sport climbing. After sending his first 9a in 2021 at just 12 years of age, the Italian climber has continued to grind out moves and routes at an unrelenting pace. In the last month, the 17-year-old has made two impressive ascents: Lapsus at Andonno and Niobe in the Arco area.

As for the kingline of the Piedmont crag, this was freed by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015, initially graded 9b but later settled in at 9a+. This is Vighetti’s hardest route to date and his redpoint came about in just 8 sessions, three years after Noia with which Lapsus shares the first part. Taking advantage of excellent conditions — read 0°C — the following day he also sent Cobra Reale, an 8c+/9a with a different start but the same finish as Lapsus.

In the days that followed, Adam Ondra freed Niobe in the Arco area. As soon as Vighetti saw the video of this spectacular slab, he headed to Passo Due Sassi where on the 20th of December he made the first repeat, remarkably in a single day of effort.

The climber from Valle di Susa commented: "After one attempt I unlocked all the cruxes and almost sent it on my 2nd go falling at the very last hard move, then after resting very little I gave one last try when there was almost no light and sent it."

As for the grade, Vighetti doesn’t rule out that it might be slightly easier, but this is only a minor detail because "The route was as amazing as l imagined it to be, one of the best l've ever tried for sure." 

 

 

 

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