Home page Planetmountain.com
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles: from 20 - 23 January 2020 Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain after 4 days and 40 hours of climbing
Photo by Daniele Molineris / Storyteller-Labs
Francesco Ratti and François Cazzanelli after the first winter enchainment of Matterhorn Grandes Murailles
Photo by Daniele Molineris / Storyteller-Labs

Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti

di

After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'

After a failed attempt in 2017 and another in 2018, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have now completed their humungous winter project: the enchainment of all the peaks on the never-ending the ridge that joins some of the main massifs in Valtournenche: the Furggen chain, the Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles and Petites Murailles. The two Italian mountain guides set off on Monday 20 January from the Theodulo hut (3,317m) at Colle del Theodulo and dropped back down into valley, via the Château des Dames gully, on Thursday 23 January at 13.00.

"It is certainly a dream come true for both of us" Ratti told planetmountain.com "these are the backyard mountains for both of us. In 1985 François' father competed the first winter traverse of the Grandes Murailles and Petites Murailles with Marco Barmasse. While the Ratti bivouac on Grandes Murailles was built by my father. Our roots are in these mountains, and ever since we’ve known each other we’ve wanted to complete this ridge traverse in winter. The thing is though that over the years we began to realise that a winter enchainment isn’t a foregone conclusion, on the contrary. To get all the way to the end, you need to be good."

Onday 1 Cazzanelli and Ratti linked the Furggen chain vie its four main peaks, Corno del Theodulo (3,469m), Cima del Breuil (3,462m), Furggen (3,492m) and Cima della Forca (3,349m), followed by the Matterhorn (4,478m) via the Piacenza route and a night spent in the Carrel hut (3,830 m).

On day 2 the mountaineers from Cervinia ascended from the Carrel hut to the Perelli bivouac (3,831m), linking a first part of Grandes Murailles on a day marked by high winds. Cazzanelli and Ratti then ascended: Punta Maria Cristina (3,708m), Punta Maquignaz (3,841m), Punta Carrel (3,841m) and Punta Bianca (3,918m) before resting at the Perelli bivouac.

On day 3 the duo continued along Grandes Murailles, tagging the following peaks: Punta Lioy (3,816m), I due Jumaux (3,872m), Becca di Guin (3,805m) and Punta Budden (3,603m). They enjoyed perfect conditions throughout the day before settling in at the Paolouccio bivouac.

On the last day, Cazzanelli and Ratti crossed Petites Murailles from the Paoluccio bivouac to Colle des Dames (3,488m), then continued via Tour du Creton (3,579m), Mont Blanc du Creton (3,406m) and Chateau des Dames (3,488m). They descended down Vallone di Vofrède at Château des Dames and returned to Cervinia on foot.

"This Himalayan style ridge is visible from the Breuil basin, where it fascinates and amazes the thousands of people who visit Cervinia every year" explained Cazzanelli "It’s comprised of 20 peaks: the highest is the Matterhorn at 4478 meters in height, while the lowest is is Mont Blanc du Créton at 3406m. Because of its proportion, altitude and exposed sections, this ridge is certainly one of the most spectacular and beautiful in the Alps. Just think, the Grandes Murailles to Petites Murailles traverse is an approximately 16 km uninterrupted ridge line."

Link: www.francoiscazzanelli.it, FB François Cazzanelli, FB Francesco Ratti, francescoratti.blogspot.com, Salewa, Millet Mountain, Garmin, Grivel

Share


NEWS / Related news:
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
22.07.2019
François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl speed up the Peutérey Integral, Mont Blanc
The two mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl have carried out an extremely fast ascent of the Peutérey Integral Ridge in the Mont Blanc massif in just 12 hours and 12 minutes. The round-trip back to the starting point at the La Sorgente campsite in Val Veny, Italy, required just 15 hours and 55 minutes.
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
01.06.2019
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
24.09.2018
Matterhorn: new rock climb Diretta allo Scudo by François Cazzanelli & Co
Matterhorn climbing: on the mountain’s South Face the Italian François Cazzanelli has completed Diretta allo Scudo, a new rock climb he established with Roberto Ferraris, Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre and Marco Farina.
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
20.09.2018
Matterhorn Ridges x 4: François Cazzanelli and Andreas Steindl climb 4 crests in 16 hours
Interview with Italy’s François Cazzanelli who on 12 September 2018 teamed up with Switzerland’s Andreas Steindl to climb all four ridges of the Matterhorn in just 16 hours and 4 minutes.
Himalayas: Marco Camandona and François Cazzanelli summit Lhotse, Everest updates
23.05.2018
Himalayas: Marco Camandona and François Cazzanelli summit Lhotse, Everest updates
The Italian alpinists Marco Camandona and François Cazzanelli have climbed Lhotse without supplementary oxygen. The latest updates from Everest.
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
26.11.2012
Matterhorn, Via Casarotto - Grassi on Pic Tyndall climbed by Farina, Cazzanelli and Ferraris
On 17-18/11/2012 Marco Farina, François Cazzanelli and Roby Ferraris made a fast and great repeat of the route first ascended by Renato Casarotto and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1983 up the South Face of the Matterhorn which exits onto Pic Tyndall (ED / 1300mt ). This is likely to be only the third repeat of the route after that carried out in February 1984 by Barmasse-Cazzanelli-Tamone and the 2000 repeat by Hervé Barmasse. The report by Marco Farina.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra