Big new rock climb up Langkofel in Dolomites
On the north face of Langkofel / Sassolungo in the Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have made the first ascent of Parole Sante, a new1050m route with difficulties up to VIII A1.
On their backyard mountain, the hugely imposing Langkofel that dominates picturesque Val Gardena in the Italian Dolomites, Aaron Moroder, Titus Prinoth and Matteo Vinatzer have forged their Parole Sante, an elegant new climb immediately to the left of the obvious yellow "nose" on the mountain’s north face.
The three climbers made a first attempt on 15 August 2018 with the idea of bivouacking on the face, but the initial pitches turned out to be far more difficult than expected past poorest rock. With insufficient gear for a push to the summit they retreated after having reached a good niche in the yellow part of the wall.
The second attempt came about a year later, on 14 July 2019, and this time only Moroder and Prinoth returned to the route as Vinatzer had other commitments. They ascended nearby via Sisifo to reach the niche, then dealt with dubious rock as they traversed towards better rock and an obvious crack, clearly visible from the valley.
Climbing a mix of free and aid, Moroder was managed to follow the crack to below the roof where he established a belay. Prinoth dealt with the last difficult pitch, once again with a mix of free and aid climbing. From the end of the difficulties they shared a pitch of Sisyphos and then continued, after 16 long pitches and circa 650 meters of virgin terrain, up the classic via Pichl for another 400 meters to the top of Langkofel.
The route was protected with nuts and friends and very few pegs; a mere 11 on the pitches and 1 or 2 at each belay, past difficulties up to VIII with one section above the roof of A1 on friends.
Speaking to planetmountain.com, Moroder stated "At every move you had to invent something, aid climbing at times, climbing free at others. I didn't think about how those who might repeat the route will do this pitch. They’ll just have to breach this crack dictated by nature, and not follow a ladder of pegs placed by the first ascentionist. We didn’t want to deprive them of their adventure."
Moroder added "The climb is not particularly “pleasant" for those who wish to repeat it, in approximately 650 meters of virgin terrain we only placed pegs where absolutely necessary, not one more and not one less. We like to think that this route, on a large face in the Dolomites, is a attestation for climbs that follow a logical line, dictated by nature, that can be climbed very well even without bolts." This reasoning explains the name of the route, Parole Sante, wise words.
Titus thanks: Salewa, SCARPA