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Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
29/03/2018 - Alpinism
Shkhara South Face, new route and first winter ascent in Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
In February 2018 Georgian mountaineers Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze climbed alpine style for 8 days to establish a new route up Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m), Georgia. In doing so they also made the first winter ascent of the mountain’s 2300 m high South Face.
Germans climb new route up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia
21/03/2018 - Alpinism
Germans climb new route up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia
On January 15th 2018 Tom Ehrig, Felix Getzlaff and Lutz Zybell climbed the new route La Torcida (450m, 12 pitches, 7a M) up Aguja Val Biois in Patagonia. Tom Ehrig reports.
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
19/03/2018 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by...
Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal
06/02/2018 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal
On 19 January 2018 Hansjörg Auer and Tobias Holzknecht made the first ascent of Nordstau, a new mixed climb in the Ötztal, Austria. On 29 January Auer teamed up with Simon Messner to carry out the first winter ascent of the nearby North Face of Innerer Hahlkogel.
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
Winter mountaineering: an interview with French alpinist Max Bonniot after his repeat of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer climb up the North-West Face of Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites, carried out together with Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines from 22 - 25 December 2017.
New Austrian Climbs in Indian Himalaya
01/01/2018 - Alpinism
New Austrian Climbs in Indian Himalaya
The Austrian Alpine Club cadet team 'Naturfreunde' celebrated the end of the 2015-2017 triennial with a successful mountaineering expedition to the Zanskar region in India that results in new climbs in the Indian Himalaya.
Annapurna III Unclimbed: the David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel climbing documentary
22/12/2017 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Unclimbed: the David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel climbing documentary
The short film Annapurna III Unclimbed that documents the 2016 attempt by Austrian alpinists David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel to ascend the virgin SE Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m) in the Himalaya.
Rungofarka first ascent in Himalaya by Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau
11/12/2017 - Alpinism
Rungofarka first ascent in Himalaya by Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau
Climbing alpine style over five days, American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made the first ascent of Rungofarka 6495 m in the Zanskar mountain range in the Indian Himalaya.
French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
14/11/2017 - Alpinism
French climb new route up Pangbuk North in Nepal
Mountaineering in the Himalayas: in the Lunag Massif (Khumbu region) the French mountaineers Max Bonniot and Pierre Sancier have climbed Tolérance Zero, a new 1100m route described as elegant, logical and technical up the North Face of Pangbuk North (6589 m).
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Mt. Ushba: Slovakians score first ski descent in Georgian Caucasus
Last May and June Slovakian alpinists Miroslav Peťo and Maroš Červienka carried out a series of difficult ski descents in the Caucasus massif in Georgia: the SW Ridge of Tetnuldi (4858 m), the SE couloir of Chatyn Tau (4412 m) and, above all, the SE couloir of Ushba North summit...
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
02/11/2017 - Alpinism
Shispare NE Face, difficult first ascent in Karakorum by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima
On 22 August 2017 Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima completed a new route up the NE Face of Shispare (7611m), Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbing alpine style for seven days, the Japanese mountaineers encountered difficulties up to M6 / WI 5.
Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın
17/09/2017 - Alpinism
Aladaglar Turkey, first repeat of Nessuno by Aktuyun and Yalcın
Zorbey Aktuyun reports about the first repeat of Nessuno (8a+, 470 m) carried out with Muammer Yalcın in the Aladaglar massif in Turkey.
Bugaboos Spire, big new rock climb up Canadian North Face
16/09/2017 - Alpinism
Bugaboos Spire, big new rock climb up Canadian North Face
Vlad Capusan reports about Tutti Frutti Summer Love (5.11+, A3, 17 pitches, 610m), the big new route climbed up the North Face of Bugaboos Spire in British Columbia, Canada together with Tom Schindfessel from 8 - 11 August 2017.
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
29/08/2017 - Alpinism
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
The trip report by Simon Richardson who from 4 - 6 August together with Michael Rinn made the first ascent of Game of Thrones (ED2, 1250m), the first route up the South-West Face of Monarch Mountain (3572m) in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia in Canada.
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
21/08/2017 - Alpinism
Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino
Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.
Bivacco dal Bianco at Passo Ombretta, Marmolada, closed for maintenance
18/08/2017 - Alpinism
Bivacco dal Bianco at Passo Ombretta, Marmolada, closed for maintenance
From 21 to 23 August 2017 the bivouac Bivacco dal Bianco located at the Ombretta Pass on Marmolada, Dolomites, will be closed for maintenance.

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