Home page Planetmountain.com
Water World Kiris Peak: day 2
Photo by archivio Maurizio Giordani
Kiris Peak: Massimo Faletti on the long traverse of Water World
Photo by archivio Maurizio Giordani
Maurizio Giordani and Massimo Faletti on the summit of Kiris Peak after having made the first ascent of Water World
Photo by archivio Maurizio Giordani
Water World Kiris Peak, Karakorum, Pakistan (1250m, VIII, A2, 65°, M3, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti 10-12-13-14-15/07/2018)
Photo by archivio Maurizio Giordani

Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani

di

Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron, Nancy Paoletto, Giorgio Zeni, Luisa Boscheri, Andrea Marchel and Nadia Pezzi.

Goro Valley. Nancy and I have been at base camp for a few days now when the five new members of our expedition finally arrive, raring to go. Their daring approach journey along the Karakorum Highway, which lasted twenty-five times longer than our comfortable one-hour flight, had provided them with a taste of the unexpected, so commonplace in these lands. I have already studied the face on Kiris Peak and with Nancy we have already ascended a simple 4900m summit opposite, which we baptise "Besenello Peak”. Our friends need to acclimatise so I suggest a quick raid to the highest peak in the valley, Snow Peak, as we baptise this 5500m summit reached after an 8 hour trudge, first across moraine and then up snow. The three best acclimatised are Nancy, Massimo and I. All the mountains in this vast area are "untouched" by mountaineers and I revel in the joy of placing crampons, mountaineering boots or climbing shoes where no human being has ever stepped before.

The weather improved some days ago and it seems like it’s going to hold out. It's time to touch rock. Five of us climb (the women watch from below) the first two pitches and this helps me gain a precise idea of ​​what lies in store. We’re faced by a real Big Wall, over 700 meters high. And are greeted by hard polished granite, vertical, compact, extremely difficult to climb. We foresee the unforeseen... waterfalls are everywhere. The snow up high, on the summit, and the heat of the sun, so strong at midday, result in water melting worryingly fast immediately after dawn (the wall is exposed NE and receives the sun until shortly after noon). As the minutes turn into hours the drips transform into a veritable waterfalls tumbling down every crack, corner and exposed rock face.

The line of ascent is identified, the most logical and feasible, following a sheltered line of passable rock formations below large overhangs, but the top remains a huge question mark…. as does the bottom. A "rest day" is obligatory before the decisive attempt, then Massimo, Manrico and I set off before dawn, to try and climb as high as possible.

We have some ropes for fixing the lower section where there are no comfortable bivouacs, and we certainly don’t lack Friends, pegs and bolts to be used in necessary. Another day is spent trying to breach some vertical sections before descending to the base and bivouacking in our tent on the glacier.

The following morning Manrico complains about a headach due to lack of acclimatisation; at the point the weather has been stable for a week... we can’t push our luck too fare and simply hope that the weather will hold out. We have to take advantage of this chance we’ve been given. So Massimo and I set off, intent on pushing all the way to the summit, and after two bivouacs needed to get through the most challenging sections, after a well-hedged bet along the traverse, some mixed pitches, just as many pitches through steep snow up to 60°, we reach the summit. Altitude 5428 meters. The difficulties we’d breached to get here... plenty and by no means easy, via the 1000m+ route.

The twin summit has two identical peaks just a hundred meters from each other, and the panorama from up there is a unique and unrepeatable. Thanks to the clear skies on our perfect summit day we enjoy breathtaking views across Nanga Parbat, K2, Broad Peak, Masherbrum, K6, K7 and hundreds of other nameless peaks, as yet without a mountaineering history, all possible small, big targets for this who, like us, wish to experience true, genuine adventures among these high mountains. For the most part still unexplored.

di Maurizio Giordani

Thanks to: KarposSCARPAClimbing Technology

This is an extact of the complete trip report, available in Italian here

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27.07.2016
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2 aid, and is protected by trad gear and few pegs.
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
01.10.2012
Via dei 6 Pilastri, new route on the Marmolada by Giordani, Ferrari and Paoletto
Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)
13.09.2006
Colpo di coda new Marmolada outing by Giordani e Faletti
Maurizio Giordani and Massimo Faletti have made the first ascent of the 28-pitch "Colpo di Coda" 6c+/A2 up the south face of the Marmolada.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
NEWSLETTER

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra