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President Obama declares Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek and Utah climbing protected
31/12/2016 - Climbing
President Obama declares Bears Ears National Monument, Indian Creek and Utah climbing protected
On 28 December 2016 the President of the United States Barack Obama established the Bears Ears National Monument. This proclamation permanently protects a region which includes Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Texas Canyon, and many other sandstone climbing areas and is the first bill that specifically acknowledges rock climbing...
Pizzo Badile Nordest supercombo, new mixed combination by David Hefti and Marcel Schenk
23/12/2016 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Nordest supercombo, new mixed combination by David Hefti and Marcel Schenk
On 16/12/2016 the two Swiss mountain guides David Hefti and Marcel Schenk climbed the ice and mixed combination 'Nordest supercombo' (800m, M7, R) a demanding line that joins Via Cassin with via Memento Mori up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Jozef Kristoffy climbs Corona at Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch in Slovakia's Tatras
05/12/2016 - Alpinism
Jozef Kristoffy climbs Corona at Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch in Slovakia's Tatras
At the start of September 2016 Slovakian climber Jozef Kristoffy made the first free ascent of Corona 11- on Jastrabia veza, the hardest multi-pitch rock climb in the High Tatras.
The routes climbing photographers dream of
28/11/2016 - Climbing
The routes climbing photographers dream of
Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #1
23/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #1
Update about Adam Ondra and his recent progress on the 'Dawn Wall', the immensely difficult big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
In August 2016 Xaver Mayr and Thomas Holler made the first free ascent of Nordwestwand (300m, VIII) on Schwarze Wand, Wetterstein.
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
30/06/2016 - Climbing
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
On 13/06/2016 Jon Egil Auestad and Øyvind Salvesen made the first ascent of #Norwegianstyle, a new trad climb up Preikestolen (Pulpit rock) in Norway.
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
07/06/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing ordeal that turned out to be one of the most...
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
20/05/2016 - Climbing
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
In April 2016 Jonas Wallin from Sweden and David Kaszlikowski from Poland established Fever Dreams (7c max, 9 pitches) on the previously unclimbed Mumbar cliff in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman island, Malaysia. To access the mountain team had to find and cut new trail in the jungle.
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
08/05/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
Austrian rock climber Barbara Zangerl has repeated Achemine, the E9 trad climb at Dumbarton Rock established by Dave MacLeod in 2001 and famous for being Scotland’s first E9.
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.