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Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
18/04/2019 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Val Pramper, Dolomites: new mixed route La Piccola Sgualdrina
In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.
Thomas Bubendorfer, Max Sparber add new tenuous mixed climb to Hoher Kasten in Austria
28/03/2019 - Alpinism
Thomas Bubendorfer, Max Sparber add new tenuous mixed climb to Hoher Kasten in Austria
On 20/02/2019 Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber made the first ascent of Die Abenteuer des Augie March up the 500m high north face of Hoher Kasten (3189m) in the Großglockner group in Austria.
Climbing at risk in Gampians, Australia
18/03/2019 - Climbing
Climbing at risk in Gampians, Australia
Climbing at the Grampians, one of Australia’s premier climbing areas, is at risk of being banned. An online petition to help safeguard the area’s future has been launched.
Igor Koller appeals against access restrictions to Tatra National Park
05/03/2019 - Environment
Igor Koller appeals against access restrictions to Tatra National Park
Slovak mountaineer Igor Koller appeals to all mountaineers, climbers, walkers, ski mountaineers against restrictions within the Tatra National Park. An online petition has been created to safeguard access to these mountains in Slovakia.
Thomas Bubendorfer discovers No Country for Old Men in South Tyrol, Italy
24/01/2019 - Alpinism
Thomas Bubendorfer discovers No Country for Old Men in South Tyrol, Italy
Austrian alpinists Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber have made the first ascent of No Country for Old Men, a challenging mixed climb close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with...
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
05/09/2018 - Alpinism
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
02/05/2018 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
Alpinists Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson have made the first ascent of Life Compass (IV 5.10a M4+ 80°, TD+, 980m of climbing), a big new alpine outing up the West Face of Mount Blane in Canada.
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
27/03/2018 - Alpinism
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
On 24/03/2018 Austrian alpinist David Lama made the solo first ascent of Nord Pfeiler, a new mixed climb up the North Face of Hohe Kirche in Valsertal, Austria.
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
Winter mountaineering: an interview with French alpinist Max Bonniot after his repeat of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer climb up the North-West Face of Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites, carried out together with Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines from 22 - 25 December 2017.

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