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Edge of Patience tested on Kongde Ri Shar in Nepal by Elias Hangweyrer, Max Muck, Jakob Ritzl
12/06/2026 - Alpinism
Edge of Patience tested on Kongde Ri Shar in Nepal by Elias Hangweyrer, Max Muck, Jakob Ritzl
From 12 - 17/05/2026 Austrian alpinists Elias Hangweyrer, Maximilian Muck and Jakob Ritzl made the first ascent of 'Edge of Patience' on the North Face of Kongde Ri Shar (6093m), sometimes referred to as Kwangde Ri Shar, in Nepal. The 2500m line checks in at M7+, A2, AI6, R. Hangweyrer...
Four big new Norway mixed climbs by Ines Papert & co
29/05/2026 - Alpinism
Four big new Norway mixed climbs by Ines Papert & co
At the start of 2026 Ines Papert established four new ice climbs in Norway with Dåg Jørund Vik, Odd T. Sæbø, Eivind Hugaas and Torje Stenkjær: 'Iskafe' (350m, M5, WI6/6+) on Kaffiberget, 'Orion’s Belte' (1000m, M4+, WI5) on Middagshaugen West Face, 'Gjølatappen' (350m, M8, WI6) on Gjøla Northwest Face and...
Farewell to Mario Conti, legendary Ragni di Lecco mountaineer who scaled Cerro Torre
28/05/2026 - Alpinism
Farewell to Mario Conti, legendary Ragni di Lecco mountaineer who scaled Cerro Torre
Yesterday morning the remains of Mario Conti were finally found. The great Italian alpinist had been missing since 14 November 2023, when he disappeared during a walk close to home. Conti was famous above all for having made the first undisputed ascent of Cerro Torre in 1974, with the Ragni...
How to strip a climb with dubious anchor bolts
28/04/2026 - Climbing
How to strip a climb with dubious anchor bolts
Cleaning a sport climb with dubious lower-offs, or retreating from a route with questionable protection, can sometimes be dangerous. UIAA mountain guide Jan Schneider from Germany illustrates a technique using a Prusik loop that increases safety while retrieving climbing gear.
La Muse du Trient established on Tête Biselx by Fay Manners, Ella Wright
08/04/2026 - Alpinism
La Muse du Trient established on Tête Biselx by Fay Manners, Ella Wright
On the 3rd and 4th of April 2026 Fay Manners and Ella Wright made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Muse du Trient' on the NNE face of Tête de Biselx in the Mont Blanc massif.
Yannick Glatthard makes fly & climb first ascent on Tällistock in Switzerland
21/03/2026 - Alpinism
Yannick Glatthard makes fly & climb first ascent on Tällistock in Switzerland
On 03 March 2026 Swiss mountaineer Yannick Glatthard made the rope solo first ascent of 'Get the Vibe' (WI5, M8, 125m) on Chlynen Tällistock in the Bernese Oberland in Switzerland. Glatthard flew to and from the mixed climb by paraglider.
Crème Brutalée mixed climb added to Mt. Astraka in Greece by Stefanos Karantinakis, Spyros Kyriakou
17/03/2026 - Alpinism
Crème Brutalée mixed climb added to Mt. Astraka in Greece by Stefanos Karantinakis, Spyros Kyriakou
On 7 March 2026, Greek climbers Stefanos Karantinakis and Spyros Kyriakou established the new mixed climb 'Crème Brutalée' (550m, AI5 M4+) on the north face of Astraka in the Pindus mountains of Greece. Kyriakou reports.
Klein Fiescherhorn first ascent by Olivier Kolly, Filippo Sala, Silvan Schüpbach
16/03/2026 - Alpinism
Klein Fiescherhorn first ascent by Olivier Kolly, Filippo Sala, Silvan Schüpbach
From 8 - 10 March 2026 Silvan Schüpbach, Olivier Kolly, Filippo Sala made the first ascent of 'Zébu' (M8+, 70°, 1100m) on the Northwest Face of Klein Fiescherhorn (Ochs) in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. The mixed climb shares the same start as the only other route on the face,...
Stefano Ragazzo is the Rider on the Storm in Patagonia
12/03/2026 - Interviews
Stefano Ragazzo is the Rider on the Storm in Patagonia
Interview with the Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo, who from 21 February to 7 March made the first solo ascent of 'Riders on the Storm' on the Central Tower of Paine in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia. This legendary 1300m big wall was first ascended in 1991 by Kurt...
'Perhaps the most beautiful corner in the Écrins?' New climb added to Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni, Étienne Poteaux
06/03/2026 - Alpinism
'Perhaps the most beautiful corner in the Écrins?' New climb added to Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller by Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni, Étienne Poteaux
From 2-3 March 2026 French alpinists Melvin Bou, Kilian Moni and Étienne Poteaux made the first ascent of 'Y’a comme un pecker dans la soupe' (420m, M8/A2) on the north face of Aiguille Orientale du Soreiller in the Écrins massif.
Yantibih Lak added to Jebel Kazhali in Jordan's Wadi Rum
11/02/2026 - Climbing
Yantibih Lak added to Jebel Kazhali in Jordan's Wadi Rum
Nate Mankovich, Manuel López and Alvaro Vernich have made the first ascent of 'Yantibih Lak' (6c, 450m) on the west face of Jebel Kazhali in Wadi Rum, Jordan. López reports.
Elles Aussi mixed climb established on Tête aux Chamois by Melanie Grünwald, Fay Manners
05/02/2026 - Alpinism
Elles Aussi mixed climb established on Tête aux Chamois by Melanie Grünwald, Fay Manners
On Tête aux Chamois at Glacier 3000 in Switzerland's Bernese Oberland, Melanie Grünwald and Fay Manners made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Elles Aussi' (M7+ A0).
Schutzengelweg first winter ascent on Sagwandspitze in Valsertal by Martin Sieberer, Lukas Waldner
23/01/2026 - Alpinism
Schutzengelweg first winter ascent on Sagwandspitze in Valsertal by Martin Sieberer, Lukas Waldner
On 20/01/2026 Austrian alpinists Martin Sieberer and Lukas Waldner completed the first winter ascent of 'Schutzengelweg' on the North Face of Sagwandspitze in the Valsertal valley in Tyrol, Austria. First ascended in summer 1982 by Andreas Orgler and Reinhard Schiestl, this is the first known repeat in 34 years.
Winter ascent of Directe Gamma on Barre des Écrins by Antoine Bouqueret, Charles Dubouloz
05/01/2026 - Alpinism
Winter ascent of Directe Gamma on Barre des Écrins by Antoine Bouqueret, Charles Dubouloz
From 28 to 31 December 2025, French alpinists Antoine Bouqueret and Charles Dubouloz repeated the 'Directe Gamma' route on the southeast face of the Barre des Écrins (4,102m). This might well be the first winter ascent of this legendary route, first climbed in 1992 by the Italians Michele Frigerio, Eugenio...
Natural Logic established on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/12/2025 - Alpinism
Natural Logic established on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 14/12/2025 Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'Natural Logic' on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello – Presanella group of the Italian Alps. Andreozzi provides the details.
Hawaii Girls established in Taghia (Morocco) by Lukas Buchberger, Florian Frank
21/12/2025 - Climbing
Hawaii Girls established in Taghia (Morocco) by Lukas Buchberger, Florian Frank
In December 2025 young German climbers Lukas Buchberger and Florian Frank made the first ascent of 'Hawaii Girls' (7c+ max. 7a obl., 180m) on the NE Face of Jebel Oujdad in Taghia, Morocco. Frank reports.

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