Hawaii Girls established in Taghia (Morocco) by Lukas Buchberger, Florian Frank

Our original plan for two and a half weeks in Taghia was simple: repeat some of the established classics and then look for a possible first ascent in a more remote side valley. Based on our prior research, the potential for new routes directly in Taghia itself seemed largely exhausted.

The weather turned out better than expected, allowing us to repeat several classics such as Rivières Pourpres, Baraka, and Haben oder Sein. During our regular afternoon tea on the rooftop terrace, our eyes were constantly drawn to the dominant north face of Oujdad. On its left side are three prominent pillars. After checking the guidebook, we realised that at least two of these pillars appeared to be unclimbed.

We therefore approached the wall with a full rack. At the base of the right-hand pillar, we found existing bolts, so we shifted our attention to the middle pillar. There, an overhanging corner crack at the start offered a logical and attractive line. On the first day, we managed to establish the first pitch and returned to the village highly motivated to continue the next day.

Overnight, however, the weather unfortunately changed abruptly from around 15°C to snowfall and 6°C. This made both the approach and the progression on the route significantly more demanding. In total, it took us five days to open the five pitches ground-up and climb 180 metres. The route was established with a mix of traditional protection (cams, nuts, pitons) and bolts in the harder face-climbing sections where natural gear was insufficient.

On the fifth day, we attempted to redpoint the entire route. Apart from the bouldery crux pitch, which is around 7c+, we were able to redpoint all the others. Due to time pressure and the worsening weather, we had to leave the valley and could not make a second redpoint attempt.

Nevertheless, we are very satisfied with having established such a logical and obvious line - clearly visible from the valley floor - characterised by consistently solid rock and enjoyable climbing.

The route name, Hawaii Girls, refers to the surf trip we had planned as a contrast to our intense two and a half weeks in Taghia. We hope that other teams will soon free the crux pitch and complete a full redpoint ascent of the route.

- Florian Frank, Bad Aibling, Germany