'Testa o Croce' added to Taghia Gorge, Morocco

In April 2023, Luca Caldini and I made a quick trip to the Taghia Gorge, and while repeating Widy Azry we noticed a beautiful section of rock to the left that looked as if it had just enough space for something new.

Precisely one year later, at Luca's suggestion, we returned to establish our route. Over the next four days, including some forced and unforced rest, we completed the climb. The result is a beautiful climb on consistently excellent rock — never trivial, but not extreme either. In October it was repeated three times, including the first free ascent, by friends who thought the climb was great.

Testa o Croce, Heads or Tails, starts 50 meters to the left of Widi Azry and crosses this on the upper section at the ninth belay, from where it continues straight up. For a repeat, 60-meter ropes are mandatory, along with 14 quickdraws, Cams from 0.3 to 0.75, and a few slings.

The descent can be carried out on foot or by abseiling. If there’s enough daylight, I’d recommend walking down; otherwise, if time is tight, rappelling is better. For the descent on foot, a 30-meter rappel is required on the other side of the ridge, to join the descent of Widi Azry.

Other than that, I’d say have fun and happy climbing to all!

by Lorenzo Gadda