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Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
26/11/2018 - Alpinism
Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman add The Indirect American to Mt MacDonald, Canada
Chris Wright (USA/UK) and Graham Zimmerman (USA/NZ) have made the first ascent of a long, difficult mixed route on the North Face of Mount MacDonald in the Selkirk Mountains in British Columbia, Canada. 1000 meters long, the Indirect American was climbed from 11 - 13 November 2018 and deals with...
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
08/09/2018 - Climbing
Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem
At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
05/09/2018 - Alpinism
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
31/08/2018 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper completes Stonecircle on Greenland solo trip
German rock climber Robert Jasper has returned from his solo expedition to Greenland after having made the first ascent of Stonecircle (7c, 450m) up Molar Spire above the Angmassalik-Tasilaq Fjord.
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
02/05/2018 - Alpinism
Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson climb Life Compass, big new route in Canada
Alpinists Brette Harrington and Rose Pearson have made the first ascent of Life Compass (IV 5.10a M4+ 80°, TD+, 980m of climbing), a big new alpine outing up the West Face of Mount Blane in Canada.
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
27/03/2018 - Alpinism
David Lama solo first ascent of Hohe Kirche Nord Pfeiler in Valsertal
On 24/03/2018 Austrian alpinist David Lama made the solo first ascent of Nord Pfeiler, a new mixed climb up the North Face of Hohe Kirche in Valsertal, Austria.
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dolomites: French winter ascent of Civetta Solleder climb
Winter mountaineering: an interview with French alpinist Max Bonniot after his repeat of the historic Solleder - Lettenbauer climb up the North-West Face of Mt. Civetta in the Dolomites, carried out together with Léo Billon and Benjamin Védrines from 22 - 25 December 2017.
El Capitan The Nose speed record video of Gobright & Reynolds
02/12/2017 - Climbing
El Capitan The Nose speed record video of Gobright & Reynolds
A video documenting a part of the amazing ascent carried out by Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright as they set a new speed record on The Nose, El Capitan,Yosemite on 21 October 2017 when they climbed the route in 2:19:44.
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
29/08/2017 - Alpinism
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
The trip report by Simon Richardson who from 4 - 6 August together with Michael Rinn made the first ascent of Game of Thrones (ED2, 1250m), the first route up the South-West Face of Monarch Mountain (3572m) in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia in Canada.
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
11/07/2017 - Alpinism
Denali, Alaska: Slovak Direct repeated by David Bacci and Luca Moroni
On their first climbing trip to Alaska, alpinists David Bacci and Luca Moroni pulled off the first Italian repeat of the Slovak Direct route up Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
Difficult Pembroke trad climbing by Zangerl, Larcher & Co
10/07/2017 - Climbing
Difficult Pembroke trad climbing by Zangerl, Larcher & Co
Barbara Zangerl, Lara Neumeier, Roland Hemetzberger and Jacopo Larcher have repeated numerous difficult trad climbs during their climbing trip to Pembroke in Wales, including The Big Issue E9 6c and Muy Caliente E9/E10.
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
16/03/2017 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl rope-solo 8c first ascent / Ganesha at Loferer Alm in Austria
In summer 2016 German rock climber made the first free ascent of Ganesha, a seven-pitch 8c he had established alone up the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Alm in Austria. Buhl climbed rope solo.
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
15/03/2017 - Climbing
Royal Robbins, goodbye to America's legendary climber
On 14 March 2017 American rock climbing pioneer Royal Robbins passed away. Aged 82, Robbins was one of the best American climbers during the ’60’s and ’70’s, the period known in "Golden Age"" of Yosemite Valley climbing. Robbins was a pioneer and advocate of clean climbing, i.e. without pegs and...
 All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
12/01/2017 - Alpinism
All-in, difficult new ice and mixed climb on Sas del Pegorer in the Dolomites
Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

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