431 News found
20/08/2019 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo, Luka Lindic add Franček Knez memorial route to Široka peč On the North Face of Široka peč in Slovenia’s Julian Alps, Silvo Karo and Luka Lindic have made the first ascent of the striking Pillar in memoriam of Franček Knez.
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
05/08/2019 - Alpinism
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old On 5 August 1939 the North Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria was climbed by Gustl Thaler and Gerald Leinweber. Mountain guide Lisi Steurer reports about this historic first ascent 80 years ago and her recent repeat with Christine Regoutz, her rather special client. And not only because...
28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on the face.
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.
18/06/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod coasts along The Golden Road in Scotland Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of The Golden Road. Located at Creag Mo on the Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, this trad climb checks in at E9.
09/06/2019 - Alpinism
Norway Lofoten Islands new rock climbs In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway
03/06/2019 - Alpinism
Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.
29/05/2019 - Climbing
Steve McClure masters GreatNess Wall, huge E10 trad route at Nesscliffe Britain’s Steve McClure has made the first ascent of GreatNess Wall, the long-standing trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the most difficult trad climbs in Great Britain.
23/05/2019 - Alpinism
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer On Pared de Catalunya at Mont Rebei in Spain Siebe Vanhee, Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano have made the first ascent of Sense retorn - No turning back, a new rock climb dedicated to Hansjörg Auer.
17/05/2019 - Environment
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful protest scheduled for Saturday 18th May has therefore be transformed...
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
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