395 News found

Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on the face.

Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.

German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...

Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.

Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of The Golden Road. Located at  Creag Mo on the Isle of Harris, Outer Hebrides, this trad climb checks in at E9.

In May 2019 Bernat Bilarrassa, Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve established two new rock climbs in the Kirkefjord area of the Lofoten Islands in Norway

Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.

Britain’s Steve McClure has made the first ascent of GreatNess Wall, the long-standing trad climbing project at Nesscliffe, England. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the most difficult trad climbs in Great Britain.

On Pared de Catalunya at Mont Rebei in Spain Siebe Vanhee, Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano have made the first ascent of Sense retorn - No turning back, a new rock climb dedicated to Hansjörg Auer.

After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful protest scheduled for Saturday 18th May has therefore be transformed...

Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.

Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)

Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...

In January 2019 Francesco Fazzi and Matteo Pilon made the first ascent of La Piccola Sgualdrina (130m M8 WI5 III), a new mixed route up in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. Fazzi, a mountain guide from Val di Zoldo, reports.

On 20/02/2019 Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber made the first ascent of Die Abenteuer des Augie March up the 500m high north face of Hoher Kasten (3189m) in the Großglockner group in Austria.

Climbing at the Grampians, one of Australia’s premier climbing areas, is at risk of being banned. An online petition to help safeguard the area’s future has been launched.