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New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
23/06/2021 - Alpinism
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
German alpinist Markus Kirch reports about the first ascent of Cocktail Sans Glace, a new mixed route established in mid-May with James Price and on the North Face of Pic Coolidge in the Massif des Écrins, France.
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
10/06/2021 - Climbing
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
British rock climber James Taylor has made the first ascent of Prisoners of the Sun, an impressively difficult and dangerous E10 7a trad climb at Rhoscolyn on Holy Island, Anglesey, Wales.
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
11/05/2021 - Alpinism
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
Luka Lindič reports about the first ascent, carried out with Ines Papert, of Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington’s West face, Central Denali Range, Alaska in April 2021.
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.
Seán Villanueva, Jon Griffin climb 'King line' on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
10/03/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva, Jon Griffin climb 'King line' on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
On the south face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia the alpinists Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll and Jonathan Griffin have made the first ascent of La Chaltenense (500m, 7a), a huge offwidth described by the first ascensionists as a 'king line'.
Adam Ondra, Tommy Caldwell talk climbing Dawn Wall, El Capitan et al
10/02/2021 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Tommy Caldwell talk climbing Dawn Wall, El Capitan et al
Watch Tommy Caldwell and Adam Ondra discussing the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, talking about their climbing and more.
Antarctica: beyond the end of the world with Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Marcello Sanguineti
29/01/2021 - Alpinism
Antarctica: beyond the end of the world with Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Marcello Sanguineti
The first episode of the Karpos web series "Antarctica: beyond the end of the world" featuring the Italian mountaineers Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Marcello Sanguineti.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
11/12/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...

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