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Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
31/01/2020 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee fires fine big walls in Cochamó valley, Chile
Belgian rock climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his ascents of three big wall climbs in Cochamó valley in Chilean Patagonia: repeats of Sundance on Cerro Trinidad with Diego Diazaguilera and El Condor Pasa on Trinidad Central with Max Didier, and the first ascent of Jardines de Piedras on Cerro la...
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
12/12/2019 - Book-press
Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques with Pete Whittaker
Interview with British rock climber Pete Whittaker about his new book Crack climbing - Mastering the skills and techniques
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts
From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
New Campanile Basso rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
11/11/2019 - Alpinism
New Campanile Basso rock climb in Brenta Dolomites
On the north face of Campanile Basso in the Brenta Dolomites Alessandro Beber, Gianni Canale and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Destrani, a new rock climb located between Spigolo Graffer and Via Maestri Claus.
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
05/10/2019 - Climbing
Dave MacLeod quashes his Mind Riot, new E10 trad climb at Binnein Shuas in Scotland
Scottish rock climber Dave MacLeod has made the first ascent of Mind Riot at Binnein Shuas in Scotland. Graded E10 7a, it stands as one of the most difficult trad climbs in the country.
Silvo Karo, Luka Lindic add Franček Knez memorial route to Široka peč
20/08/2019 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo, Luka Lindic add Franček Knez memorial route to Široka peč
On the North Face of Široka peč in Slovenia’s Julian Alps, Silvo Karo and Luka Lindic have made the first ascent of the striking Pillar in memoriam of Franček Knez.
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
15/08/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Sean Villanueva on Eiger first one day ascent of La Vida es Silbar
Details of the first one-day ascent of La Vida es Silbar up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland, carried out on 23 July by Roger Schaeli and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll.
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
09/08/2019 - Alpinism
All or nothing. By Hector Silva Peralta
The first of two parts written by Hector Silva Peralta, a Chilean mountaineer who lived in Italy for 9 years before traveling to Chile, Canada and Alaska pursuing his dream: to become a mountaineer.
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old
05/08/2019 - Alpinism
Laserz North Face, 80-year-old Lienz Dolomites Direttissima climbed by 70-year-old
On 5 August 1939 the North Face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria was climbed by Gustl Thaler and Gerald Leinweber. Mountain guide Lisi Steurer reports about this historic first ascent 80 years ago and her recent repeat with Christine Regoutz, her rather special client. And not only because...
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
28/07/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee, David Leduc sweep up new climb in the Dolomites
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and David Leduc have made the first ascent of Spazzacamino up the Terza Pala di San Lucano (Pale di San Lucano, Dolomites). The new multi-pitch climb was established ground-up, all free and with one bivouac on the face.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the West Face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
27/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Slovak Direct climbed in Alaska by Bru Busom, Marc Toralles
Spanish mountaineers Bru Busom and Marc Toralles report about their June 2019 repeat, despite difficult conditions, of the Slovak Direct, the famous and difficult route up the South Face of Denali (6194m) in Alaska established from 13 - 23 May 1984 by Blažej Adam, Tono Križo and František Korl.