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Antarctica: beyond the end of the world with Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Marcello Sanguineti
29/01/2021 - Alpinism
Antarctica: beyond the end of the world with Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola, Marcello Sanguineti
The first episode of the Karpos web series "Antarctica: beyond the end of the world" featuring the Italian mountaineers Gianluca Cavalli, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Marcello Sanguineti.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
11/12/2020 - Alpinism
Monte Nero di Presanella new climb by Santiago Padrós, Francesco Rigon
On 27 November 2020, the mountain guides Francesco Rigon and Santiago Padrós established a new mixed climb on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella group, Italy). Called Illogika, the new line probably has some sections in common with a 1964 summer route. Padrós reports.
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
02/12/2020 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
13/11/2020 - Climbing
Bekatau-Ata granite rock climbing in Kazakhstan
Kirill Belotserkovskiy introduces the rock climbing at Bekatau-Ata, a fascinating system of granite cliffs 70 kilometers to the north of Balkhash in Central Kazakhstan
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
14/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Paciencia repeated by Nils Favre and Symon Welfringer
Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Climbing banned at Taipan Wall in Australia
15/08/2020 - Climbing
Climbing banned at Taipan Wall in Australia
Rock climbing has been temporarily banned at one of Australia’s premier crags, Taipan Wall in the Grampians.
The Indian Face by Johnny Dawes, the story of Britain's first E9
01/06/2020 - Climbing
The Indian Face by Johnny Dawes, the story of Britain's first E9
The video about Britain's first E9 trad climb, The Indian Face first ascended by Johnny Dawes in 1986 at Cloggy in Wales and only repeated a handful of times in over thirty years.
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
10/04/2020 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
After spending 33 days alone on the wall from 07/02 - 10/03/2020, Silvia Vidal completed a new big wall climb up the West Face of Cerro Chileno Grande in Patagonia, Chile. Sincronia Magica (A3+/6a+, 1200m circa) is the first route up the mountain’s west face.
La Sportiva produces face masks to combat coronavirus pandemic
01/04/2020 - Environment
La Sportiva produces face masks to combat coronavirus pandemic
Everyone is united, even the outdoor world against Covid-19: La Sportiva has converted part of its production to create lab coats and face masks for the Province of Trento to combat the coronavirus emergency.
Aguja Poincenot, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva climb another two routes in Patagonia
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva climb another two routes in Patagonia
Belgian alpinist Nicolas Favresse reports about another two routes climbed with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia: Beggars Banket (7a, 400m) first ascended on the East Face directly above the Whillans ramp and, on the South Face, the first repeat and first free ascent of Historia interminable (6c,...
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
On 9 February 2020 Julien Herry and Yannick Boissenot made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Boeuf - Sara couloir on Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif. Herry reports.