Home page Planetmountain.com
Bernd Zangerl in Valle dell’Orco making the first ascent of Grenzenlos
Photo by Jacopo Larcher
Bernd Zangerl in Valle dell’Orco bouldering out the lower section of Grenzenlos
Photo by Jacopo Larcher
Bernd Zangerl placing the pecker on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
Photo by Jacopo Larcher
Bernd Zangerl and the pecker that protected the crack climb Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco
Photo by Jacopo Larcher

Bernd Zangerl explores his limits on Grenzenlos in Valle dell’Orco

by

Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of a difficult crack called Grenzenlos in Valle Orco, Italy. Protected with a pecker, it is a mix between a trad climb and a highball.

Ever since 2012 Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl has made Valle dell’Orco his second home and in early October the 42-year-old freed a thin crack that in some ways surpasses one of his most famous valley creations, the highball 29dots. The leftwards trending razor-thin crack slices through a 10m boulder and disappears just below the summit where the physical and psychological crux awaits. Zangerl isn’t a great fan of dozens and dozens of crashpads stacked on top of each other after having worked the moves he eventually decided to protect the crack with a cam low down and a pecker at the crux ... Currently no grade has been put forth, but the highball is called Grenzenlos, limitless.

GRENZENLOS by Bernd Zangerl

Whenever I visit an area, it’s not the existing routes that catch my eye; the lines that catch my attention are the ones that no one has ever climbed before. I enjoy working on something that hasn’t been explored yet, not knowing I will ever succeed. This kind of inspiration keeps motivation high and, to this day, nothing has changed for me in this perspective.

For for the last 10 years I’ve been a frequent guest of the beautiful Valle dell’Orco in Italy. I love this remote, wild mountain region and every year I visit Noasca. This little village is the best starting point for climbing adventures in the valley, and over all those years I’ve established numerous little sectors. Bravirabi (8A), Self aperto (8A), I coloniali sd (8B/C) or 29dots (8A+),to name just a few, all offer world class bouldering. Back in 2015 I made the first ascent of the 13m highball 29dots which, in terms of difficulty and exposure, remains absolute highlight. I didn’t plan to push this style even further when I drove into the valley this September. But what should I do? Suddenly the bloc was there in front of me, and I could either accept the challenge or turn away.

At the end of October I established my most beautiful climb to date and, because of the unorthodox protection, it might be one of the wildest, too. I wanted to boulder up the 10m wall, but it turned out that falling from the upper crux right was not an option. I could have built a landing zone or organise 10 crashpads which has become „normal“ in the climbing community, but I’m not a fan of this.

Adapting the challenge to a personal comfort zone would certainly have made the first ascent easier and quicker, for sure. But isn’t Mother Nature the director, she who lays down challenge for us, also in terms of pro ? Physically I knew straight away that I could do this project, the crux was in my mind. In mental & physical challenges like this one I prefer to work alone or with my best friend. I am old school, but choosing the longer option also results in a more intense analysis of the project.

I named this route Grenzenlos (without borders, limitless), because when external circumstances apparently limit our liberty, our minds push us to overcome these limitations. The mind has no limits.

Big thanks to Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher who supported me on this beautiful journey.

Link: www.berndzangerl.comPetzl

Share


NEWS / Related news:
Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
25.06.2019
Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
In Valle Orco, Italy, Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of the sitdown start to I Coloniali, describing it as 'one of the best boulders I've ever climbed.'
Bernd Zangerl joins 29dots in Val Noasca
27.07.2015
Bernd Zangerl joins 29dots in Val Noasca
Austrian boulderer Bernd Zangerl​ has made the first ascent of 29 dots, describing the highball in Val Noasca - Valle dell'Orco, Italy, as "the proudest, the hardest piece of rock I climbed in this style."
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
07.08.2017
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
The video of Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl who, 489 days after a serious injury, has managed to make the first free ascent of Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland. Graded 8c+, this route is one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.
Bernd Zangerl and his boulder problems in Val Noasca
25.05.2013
Bernd Zangerl and his boulder problems in Val Noasca
Bernd Zangerl's best boulder problems in Val Noasca, Valle dell' Orco, Italy.
Bernd Zangerl bouldering Bravirabi in Val Noasca, Italy
22.02.2012
Bernd Zangerl bouldering Bravirabi in Val Noasca, Italy
In Italy's Val Noasca Bernd Zangerl has established a handful of boulder problems, including Bravirabi 8A+/B.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com: climbing, alpinism, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing worldwide. Furthermore the site contains technical gear reviews, book and film reviews, expert advice, mountain photos, sport climbing competitions.
INFO
The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
NEWSLETTER

SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer