Bernd Zangerl frees top boulder problem in Valle dell’Orco
In Valle Orco, Italy, Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl has made the first ascent of the sitdown start to I Coloniali, describing it as 'one of the best boulders I've ever climbed.'
Bernd Zangerl up to his usual tricks in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco. Ever since 2012 the Austrian - responsible in 2001 for the coveted first repeat of Dreamtime at Cresciano in Switzerland - travels to Italy’s Piedmont region to explore the valley, establishing instant classics such s as Bravirabi, El Salvador, Self Aperto and the 14 meter highball 29dots close to Noasca.
All this suddenly ground in to halt in 2015 when he fell strangely at Cresciano and damaged his fifth and sixth cervical vertebrae. Initially it seemed as if hi might never climb again but in the end Zangerl pulled through, possibly stronger than ever before.
Now he has managed to not only repeat a boulder problem that he climbed before the accident, but he has also added difficult sitdown start to the problem. The bloc is Il Colonel in Valle Orco, freed by Niccolò Ceria. With its sds it is, according to the 40-year-old "one of the best boulders I've ever climbed."