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Valle dell'Orco: Maurizio Oviglia climbing Fessura della Disperazione
Photo by Valerio Bertoglio
Via Locatelli on Sergent in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Photo by Umberto Bado
Via delle Placche up Sergent in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Photo by Umberto Bado
The Sergent rock face in Valle dell'Orco, Italy: Via delle Placche (verde), Fessura della Disperazione (rosso), Via Locatelli (blu)
Photo by Umberto Bado

Orco Valley climbing: two classic rock climbs up Sergent

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Italian mountain guide Umberto Bado introduces two absolute classic rock climbs in Valle dell'Orco: Fessura della Disperazione and Via Locatelli.

Sergent is the most famous and popular wall in Valle dell’Orco, the Orco Valley. Cracks of all shapes and sizes wind their up these solid gneiss slabs, creating a paradise for trad climbing. Ever since 1973 routes have been established here by highly skilled and visionary rock climbers.

The two routes I want to introduce differ considerably, but they share the same innate beauty. The first, Fessura della Disperazione, is the iconic route in Valle Orco and a good test even for experienced trad climbers. Via Locatelli on the other hand can be considered a good route to learn how to place nuts and friends.

The cliff is located at an altitude of about 1600m and faces south. The best time of year generally runs from May to October.

The two climbs don’t suffer particularly from seepage even after extended periods of rain, and they dry out quickly after just half a day of sunshine.

I can only wish you happy and safe climbing!

by Umberto Bado, Guide Alpine Torino

TOPO: Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi, Sergent, Valle Orco

TOPO: Via Locatelli, Sergent, Valle Orco

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