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Florence Pinet climbing Requiem at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland. Freed by Dave Cuthbertson in 1983, at the time it was considered the hardest trad climb in the world.
Photo by Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
Gérome Pouvreau on the final moves of Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland. Freed by Dave MacLeod in 2006, even today this fine testpiece is recognised as one of the hardest trad climbs in the world
Photo by Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, home to some of the most difficult trad climbs in the world
Photo by Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet

Extreme trad climbing in Scotland: Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet repeat Rhapsody and Requiem

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At Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, French climber Gérome Pouvreau has repeated Rhapsody E11, while Florence Pinet climbed Requiem E8 6b.

After their exceptional climbing days in Wales, France’s Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet travelled north to Dumbarton Rock in Scotland where, despite the rain, they managed to climb two of the UK’s most significant trad climbs.

Pouvreau came up trumps on what, in 2006, heralded a new era for extreme trad climbing in Great Britain, namely Dave McLeod’s famous Rhapsody. Talking to planetmountain.com, Pouvreau explained "I worked the route for three days on toprope in disgusting conditions. It was really greasy and I managed two attempts a day. The on the fourth day conditions improved, the north wind was on my side and the rock was dry. Perfect for a lead attempt. After a brief inspection and a warm up I sent it on my first attempt, placing all the pro during the ascent. Fortunately I never had to make that massive fall. The protection is good but it’s true, it’s really runout! I was really surprised but also very happy! Rhapsody is a beautiful line, hard and bold. For sure one of my best climbing moments this year!"

While Pouvreau tackled Rhapsody, Pinet focused on Requiem which shares the same overhanging crack line before breaking off right at the top. This milestone in British trad climbing was pioneered by Dave Cuthbertson back in 1983 and at the time it was recognised as one of the hardest traditional routes in the world, with difficulties settling in at E8 6b, or French 8a but on trad. In 2014 Caroline Ciavaldini pulled off the coveted first female ascent, while Barbara Zangerl snatched the second in 2016. Pinet needed just two days of work before sending the route on her fourth attempt, placing all the gear on lead.

The French vertical journey across Britain continues. Currently the two are heading down towards the England. Destination: the famous gritstone outcrops in the Peak District.

Links: FB Gérome Pouvreau, FB Florence Pinet, gerome-pouvreau.blogspot.com/, pinetflorence.blogspot.com

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NEWS / Related news:
12.04.2006
MacLeod frees Rhapsody E11 7a
Scottish Dave MacLeod has climbed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland, calling the climb Rhapsody and grading the route E11 7a. This makes it a strong contender for one of the hardest trad pitches in the world.
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
02.09.2018
Hard trad repeats in Wales by James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau, Florence Pinet
Good weather has resulted in a series of hard trad repeats in Wales by the likes of James McHaffie, Angus Kille, Emma Twyford, Gérome Pouvreau and Florence Pinet.
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
08.05.2016
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
Austrian rock climber Barbara Zangerl has repeated Achemine, the E9 trad climb at Dumbarton Rock established by Dave MacLeod in 2001 and famous for being Scotland’s first E9.
Caroline Ciavaldini Requiem video at Dumbarton Rock
22.04.2015
Caroline Ciavaldini Requiem video at Dumbarton Rock
The video of Caroline Ciavaldini and the first female ascent of Requiem E8 6b at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
13.05.2016
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Rhapsody E11 second ascent by Sonnie Trotter
10.06.2008
Rhapsody E11 second ascent by Sonnie Trotter
Canadian Sonnie Trotter has made the second ascent of Rhapsody, Dave MacLeod's E11 at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland.

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