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Sergi Mingote perishes on K2
16/01/2021 - Alpinism
Sergi Mingote perishes on K2
Spanish mountaineer Sergi Mingote died earlier today while descending from K2. The Catalan mountaineer was descending from Camp 1 to Advanced Base Camp when he fell to his death.
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible?
German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview
Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
27/12/2020 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Harder, Faster while Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Gaia at Black Rocks
At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, Faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.
British climber Aidan Roberts is World Class
22/12/2020 - Climbing
British climber Aidan Roberts is World Class
Last summer relatively unknown British climber Aidan Roberts performed at a world-class level, establishing first ascents up to 8C+. This story is about his bouldering breakthrough and his amazing run of form.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
21/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
Watch the first episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
18/12/2020 - Climbing
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
Above Imst in Austria Angela Eiter has made the first ascent of Madame Ching, her most difficult first ascent to date.
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
On 28/11/2020 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Aurona, a new mixed climb up the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja encounter streamed today at 12
08/10/2020 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja encounter streamed today at 12
On Thursday 8 October 2020 at 12:00 the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, will be streamed on gazzetta.it and ilfestivaldellosport.it
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
On Thursday 8 October the video will be aired documenting the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, in the run-up to the Gazzetta dello Sport Festival which take place in Milan, Italy, from Friday 9 to Sunday 11 October.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain
30/09/2020 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated El Bon Combat, the 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain established in 2015 by Chris Sharma.