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Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
18/12/2020 - Climbing
Angela Eiter frees Madame Ching in Austria
Above Imst in Austria Angela Eiter has made the first ascent of Madame Ching, her most difficult first ascent to date.
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Manuel Baumgartner, Simon Kehrer climb new ice in the Dolomites
On 28/11/2020 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Aurona, a new mixed climb up the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal
On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
09/10/2020 - Alpinism
Two New Routes on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Simon Richardson reports about two new routes climbed on Mont Vert de Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif with Michael Rinn, the ephemeral mixed route Dinosaur Gully and the traditional multi-pitch rock climb Autumn Vibes.
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja encounter streamed today at 12
08/10/2020 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja encounter streamed today at 12
On Thursday 8 October 2020 at 12:00 the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, will be streamed on gazzetta.it and ilfestivaldellosport.it
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja meeting for Sports Festival in Italy
On Thursday 8 October the video will be aired documenting the encounter between Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja, two of the most famous mountaineers in the world, in the run-up to the Gazzetta dello Sport Festival which take place in Milan, Italy, from Friday 9 to Sunday 11 October.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain
30/09/2020 - Climbing
Jorge Díaz-Rullo repeats El Bon Combat 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain
Spanish climber Jorge Díaz-Rullo has repeated El Bon Combat, the 9b at Cova de Ocell in Spain established in 2015 by Chris Sharma.
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
08/09/2020 - Climbing
Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford climb E9 in England and Wales
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
04/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer discover L Pilaster Desmincià on Sass Rigais in Dolomites
Following a line traced 50 years ago by Reinhold Messner, on 29/07/2020 Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer made the first ascent of L Pilaster Desmincià, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the NW face of Sass Rigais in the Geislerspitzen group of the Italian Dolomites.
Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview
28/07/2020 - Interviews
Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview
Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

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